Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The pipe that goes from the cooler to the throttle its got a 1cm diameter smaller hose connected to the side of it that goes to a t-junction and then i dunno where. Its neart the pwr steering liquid.

My question is this: on the piping kit i got there is no hole there for that hose to go into. Does any1 know what that little hose is and do i have to connect it to the new piping?

Thanx guys,

ur help will be GREATLY appreciated

The pipe that goes from the cooler to the throttle its got a 1cm diameter smaller hose connected to the side of it that goes to a t-junction and then i dunno where. Its neart the pwr steering liquid.

My question is this: on the piping kit i got there is no hole there for that hose to go into. Does any1 know what that little hose is and do i have to connect it to the new piping?

Thanx guys,

ur help will be GREATLY appreciated

1cm smaller than the cooler pipe? or do u mean a 1cm diameter hose, like a vaccum line? maybe for a guage if its a vaccum line? did u get a set of instructions with the cooler kit, and what cooler kit u got/whered u get it from? if its specific for ur car, it may have a mention for it. from my understanding, the line was there previously, it didnt come with the cooler kit...

Edited by VB-

i mean a 1cm in diameter hose like a vacuum line as u said. I don't have any afta market gauges. I got the piping from hypergear and it doesn't have instructions, its specific for my car.

Yea the line was on the stock pipe but there is no hole in the new pipes to allow for this line.

i mean a 1cm in diameter hose like a vacuum line as u said. I don't have any afta market gauges. I got the piping from hypergear and it doesn't have instructions, its specific for my car.

Yea the line was on the stock pipe but there is no hole in the new pipes to allow for this line.

probably u best bet would be to chase the vaccum lines, and see where they go to. if its before the throttle body, its probly not a guage, but it's probly there for a reason. it may not be necessary, but find out where the line runs to, or wait for sumone whose done a cooler on the same car

Don't know if it's too late, but with my kit I got a t-piece & a hose about 3ft long, just get someone who know's about this to show you what line to cut, whack in the t-piece & run it back. The pic shows where mine ran from which is what you're asking about. I think the line in question is something to do with the factory boost controller.

For the record this is when my car didn't have 350rwhp. :P

post-17137-1146937707.jpg

Don't know if it's too late, but with my kit I got a t-piece & a hose about 3ft long, just get someone who know's about this to show you what line to cut, whack in the t-piece & run it back. The pic shows where mine ran from which is what you're asking about. I think the line in question is something to do with the factory boost controller.

For the record this is when my car didn't have 350rwhp. :P

So basically, u run this little hose to another hose and connect it via t-piece.

Question is what hose u run it to?

any vacuum line off the intake piping there is one to the charcol canister

Thanx dude,

Just to clarify is is better to put it to the hose that connects to ur boost gauge?

Or better to put to the holse that connects to BOV/actuator?

Don't know if it's too late, but with my kit I got a t-piece & a hose about 3ft long, just get someone who know's about this to show you what line to cut, whack in the t-piece & run it back. The pic shows where mine ran from which is what you're asking about. I think the line in question is something to do with the factory boost controller.

For the record this is when my car didn't have 350rwhp. :(

Hey with the pipe that goes past/near the timing belt, did u have to cut the fan a little?

cut the fan ,took about 10mm off mine. Take off the whole fan to do it, i used a jigsaw. do one blade then use the offcut as a template to mark the rest. I used some sandpaper to clean up the edges. good luck wit it.......

cut the fan ,took about 10mm off mine. Take off the whole fan to do it, i used a jigsaw. do one blade then use the offcut as a template to mark the rest. I used some sandpaper to clean up the edges. good luck wit it.......

Thanx for the advice much appreciated it. Me and my friend basically mounted it so it wouldn't touch but it seems a little dodgy and it still moves around a bit. I might take ur advice and just cut the fan. Thanx again

Progress report:

Sat night: 9pm - 2am.

At my mates house, my mate ditches me so he can spend time with his g/f. So being a absolute N00b, takes me 5 hours to remove bodykit, front bar, stock piping and stock cooler. My mate did however manage to drill out a screw i happend to shred.

Sun

Even tho my mate said he would be up at 9am to help, he gets up at 11 then goes straight to work. Oh well at least i get to use his tools.

My other mate with a 180 comes around and we manage to mount the cooler and with the help of another guy that was walking past in the street, manage to get all the piping done on the hot side.

We had to use some pvc since the alluminium piping i got didnt quite fit in place. It was difficult to get rubber/silicon on this PVC.

Also as mentioned in the post above, half the cold side piping is done, altho in a dodgy fashion as to prevent the piping hitting the radiator fan.

Tommorrow

Finish uni at 5

Will have to finish cold side pipe, ie drill a hole in the chasis to fit the cold pipe from the intercooler to the adjoining piece.

Also will have to decide where to put my horn and also where to connect the loose vacuum hose to.

Hopefully this all will be done by the end of Monday, thus i will be able to drive my car

You used PVC....OMG...

Please stop there and take it to someone who knows that the f**k they are doing...

ease up!

there was a topic on the use of pvc as intercooler piping and the people who have tried it said that it worked just fine. even if it aint as pretty as shiney sparkely aluminium.

dont get on his back just for that, eh?

its a bit harsh.

Progress report:

a screw i happend to shred.

with the help of another guy that was walking past in the street,
We had to use some pvc
half the cold side piping is done, altho in a dodgy fashion

LOL!!!! this is sounding like proper bush mechanic!!! good luck!!!!

LOL, u guys are funny. I fixed it up so that the pipe so it mounts properly, and doesnt look dodgy. I snipped the fan blades so it fits now.

Tomorrow or Wednesday i goto:

1) drill hole on driver's side and connect the cold pipe. estimated time: 1.5hrs

2) rellocate the horns somewhere (any good ideas?) estimated time: 0.5hrs

3) Trim the front bumber bar and put it back on estimated time: 2hrs

4) Connect the stock boost controller back to the BOV hose and t-piece it estimated time: 0.5hrs

5) Put front bodykit back on estimated time: 0.5hrs

6) Goto the guy who i bought the kit off and abuse him for giving me the wrong size hot pipe. (this is where i had to use the pvc)

estimated time: 2hrs

7) Get a refund for hose from that guy since he gave me the wrong sizes and i had to buy my own

estimated time: 0.5hrs (due to arguments)

8) Possibly remount the cooler off the bumper bar (atm it is mounted from the chasis bar running along the top)

estimated time: 2hrs

Oh yea, all these time could be halved if my mate helped me instead of spending every fricken second wit his g/f.

Pics will be up soon guys, hang in there for me

Edited by Taso84

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...