Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im abit bored but was just thinking about occasionally while driving my line in traffic (no speeding ^^) at around 3000 rpm light throtle I got these perfect shifts (usually 2nd to 3rd) where the gear would move in so smoothly without that clicky feeling at all. Just wish I could have that at all gears, especially in the morning where I got to shift really sloooww. Anyway do you guys experience this in traffic driving ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118195-those-perfect-shifts-do-you-havem/
Share on other sites

YES!

I've been trying to learn to do that on every shift, but I never can. It's still clicky most of the time.

When the box is warm, and if it is at the perfect rpm, it feels like I coulda pushed it in by tapping it with my pinky finger.

If only I was shift master and could do it all the time.

i thought it was wen the synchros dont have to do the work too, like when the speeds match up, so try and find how much rpm u drop on each shift, then add 900 or 1000 rpm, and try n shift there (so the next gear is only at about 1000rpm wen u let the clutch out)

i been told that shiftin from 3rd to 4th is easy without the clutch, just to slightly lift off and pull back hard. lol, im assuming (never actually done it myself) this works as the ratios are pretty close... well, compared to the difference in lower gears anyway. anyone done any serious damage by neglecting the clutch?

Going up without the clutch is ok (sort of), the real challenge is going down gears without a clutch smoothly and without crunching. It just takes a bit of practice, and lots of crunching.

I spent 10 years driving 18 ton Macks with a 5 speed non synchro box. Clutchless changes are easy enough when practiced, and I used to set my drivers training skills to travel large distances to not use the clutch unless starting off.

I don't recommend it for synchro boxes. Use the clutch.

I spent 10 years driving 18 ton Macks with a 5 speed non synchro box. Clutchless changes are easy enough when practiced, and I used to set my drivers training skills to travel large distances to not use the clutch unless starting off.

I don't recommend it for synchro boxes. Use the clutch.

whats the trick for clutchless shifting? just practice or is there a special technique u use? u must be pretty good havin 10 years with a non syncro box, tryin not to use the clutch for long trips must been fun

whats the trick for clutchless shifting? just practice or is there a special technique u use? u must be pretty good havin 10 years with a non syncro box, tryin not to use the clutch for long trips must been fun

The trick is finding the right revs in each gear where everything inside the box and engine is aligned in terms of revs.

I can do it in the cef and the barina but obviously each car is going to have different revs so I can't tell you the ones for the skyline ;)

The trick to a clutchless upchange. As you ease off the throttle pull it out of gear. As the revs drop to the right point just pull it into the next one. Apply accelerator and continue.

Downchange. As the revs hit the right point just give a small touch on the accelerator to unload the box and pull it out of gear. Rev to the right range and slip it in the next one down. All in the timing.

In racing I use a half double clutch for upchanges where, as I back off the throttle to drop the clutch I pull it out of gear and as the clutch disengages it pulls into the next gear. Can take as little as 0.3sec to change. Racing dog boxes are quicker.

  • 2 weeks later...

Mines pretty hard to get into second when cold, worse at light throttle/low rpm. Shifts smoothly at high rpm and when warm.

I figured it was due to worn friction faces on the synchro cones, you can feel the synchro sleeve clashing on the teeth as you pull it into gear. I was considering trying to get it fixed under warranty....

Anyone replaced a 1-2 synchro on R33 Gts-t box? I've read conflicting statements about the availability of parts.

i found its hard to put it back into first while the car is still slwoly moving (e.g 5k's or less)

the tx3 was a differant story, went into first easy.

Its bad habit of mine when coming to a complete stop, i like to put it into first before stopping so i can take off quick again.

steve

The welds on my clutch pedal broke the other week and i had to drive home without a clutch (only 5mins no stopping). Lucky i was going down a hill otherwise i wouldnt have been able to get it moving.

Mine is also hard to put into first while car is still slowly moving.

Do you guys find it on really cold start, hard to put the gear into 2nd??

Yeah mines the same going into 2nd gear on a cold start its a bit hard but once the gear box is warmed up its sweet as. I put redline gearbox oil in and that helped alot. Before without the redline oil it was heaps worse.

Like everyone when my car is cold it is not good going into 2nd but once it warm don`t matter what gear or revs it smooth as , changed oil to redline few months ago made it better

I think u need "soft hands" for good changes don`t force it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...