Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got a question for yas.

if your car is stock height and you drive into a driveway and scrap the shit out of your front bar can you sue the council for the damage? or even if you arnt stock height but are still at the legal height of 100mm? :unsure:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118571-got-a-question-for-yas/
Share on other sites

Why would you imagine the council would be liable for you driving your car in such a manner that it causes it to scrape against the driveway? If anything, they should sue you for damaging their driveway with your car...

Why would you imagine the council would be liable for you driving your car in such a manner that it causes it to scrape against the driveway? If anything, they should sue you for damaging their driveway with your car...

Yeah I totally agree. I don't think the council will pay for damage caused by an impact due to a drivewy lip being too high. In the same way they won't pay for damage to your car caused by an impact due to the posted speed limit being too high.

yeah, i dotn think ur gonna get much support on here, not to sound harsh, its just reality. where was the driveway anyway? is there any rule as to the angle on a driveway? coz it would make sense that any legal height car should be able to get up any driveway, within limits of course... not EVERY car and EVERY driveway, but i know alot of cars that scrape, and aint even that low

e.g. a stock skyline drivin through an intersection (not a driveway, but still...) at well below the speed limit scapes coz the road has a big mound in it, and on the dip on the other side, hits the groud with sum force. and this was on a main road crossing the princess highway

edit - i am aware the overhang is just as important as ride height, so i dont expect every car to get in every driveway, but most should be able too

Edited by VB-

From a legal point of view, the council are pretty well sewn-up. That's not to say that they're above the law, but you would need a tightly strung case to get them to concede anything.

I know a case that ran against a Metropolitan council a few years back. It ended up running for years, and racked up millions in legal fees. Eventually, the council lost the case, and was ordered to pay costs...

Needless to say, the residents of that council district STILL have a levy in their council rates to make up for the fees paid by the council for losing.

my parents built a house in a develpoment a couple of years ago, and for some f**king stupid reason there was a traffic island built right across the driveway. and the house was on the right side of the road and the end of the street was a dead end, so you either had to drive over the island or go to the end of the street and do a 10 point turn (due to lack of parking everyone parks ther cars in the street)

told the developers, they came and shortened the island, so now you can get in, but only just. easier to just drive on the wrong side of the road

  • 4 weeks later...

just checking gee wizz just a question! i know a girl who stepped in a pot hole on a foot path and broke her ankle and got 12 grand from the council for there poorly maintained foot path. but you cant get anything for damage to your car for a poorly maintained road?

And for those of you saying i should be sued for daqmage to their driveway and that i should learn how to drive, im not an idiot i mount it on an angle.

why is the legal height 100mm? is it to protect the roads, speed bumps and driveways? or is it to prevent damage to your car?

if vic roads build roads and streets and have a rule of 100mm and i stick to that rule and their road damages my car i should get compensated.

im not saying i will and i know ive got no hope getting it. but i thought fellow car enthusiasts would agree. makes sense to me.

obviously im careful not to damage my car but hey shit happens and when it does its because of crappy roads streets and driveways.

just checking gee wizz just a question! i know a girl who stepped in a pot hole on a foot path and broke her ankle and got 12 grand from the council for there poorly maintained foot path.

Thats a whole nuther kettle of fish.

The 100mm rule would be in effect, to prevent you from bottoming out over every dip and bump in the road. Bottoming out can be dangerous, as in extreme circumstances it could cause one or more tyres to lose contact with the road, hense the potential to lose control. 100mm would be the figure decided on, that would prevent you from bottoming out on anything other than the most extreme conditions.

By the way, I have seen plenty of stock cars scrape on some driveways.

Edited by Thunderbolt

Ok lets angle this question from another angle...as we all know to repair a cracked front bar is relatively cheap.

eg

John smith driving down the road in his r34 vspec II and hits a pot hole damaging one of 4000 dollar rims!

What do you think would be the outcome under these circumstances?

From a legal point of view, the council are pretty well sewn-up. That's not to say that they're above the law, but you would need a tightly strung case to get them to concede anything.

I know a case that ran against a Metropolitan council a few years back. It ended up running for years, and racked up millions in legal fees. Eventually, the council lost the case, and was ordered to pay costs...

Needless to say, the residents of that council district STILL have a levy in their council rates to make up for the fees paid by the council for losing.

This brings forward the question, is the counsil hated by its residents for continuing to persuse the case. Or is the resident that sued hated by all for the higher rates ;)

hey guys got a question for yas.

if your car is stock height and you drive into a driveway and scrap the shit out of your front bar can you sue the council for the damage? or even if you arnt stock height but are still at the legal height of 100mm? :P

Surely this thread is a joke.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...