Jump to content
SAU Community

"A-LSD"?? are they common on R33 Series 2s?

Guest one8tee

By Guest one8tee,
in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

akeenan Grand Master

akeenan

Posted
Posted
but what I'm asking is what does the HICAS mean - is it 4WS or active diff or both?

HICAS comes on all skylines this means it has 4 wheel steering(for info do a search on hicas there will be 244,000 threads) A-lsd stands for active limited slip differential this is extreamly rare you are lucky if you have this it is a gtr vspec feature, basically it means you have the same differential as a gtr vspec see my attached picture for details.........it is a feature that costs an extra 5k brand new and is the best!

for all those that dont know do a search on a-lsd and you will find out,,,

fatz Grand Master

fatz

Posted
Posted

is the lsd like the vspec gtr that turns to shit one it overheats and becomes a single spinner.

v spec gtr r shocking once the 4wd goes off( happens frequently at track days) and it becomes a rwd single spinner

just wondering if the gts version of the diff does the same thing

pete

bangahh Community Regular

bangahh

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by KDR33

My R33's door lock when i shift my gear to 2nd, is that a safety shit or some thing wrong with my car?

In my car, i hear the hostess saying please fasten your seat belf, we are taking off soon.

  • 1 year later...
gazza49 Apprentice

gazza49

Posted
Posted
akeenan: thanks for the pic, but i'm interested to see what the plate says

Mine is an active LSD, built Feb 94.

Plate says RC41. the 41 is the rear drive ratio of 4:1 I think.

However, the difference in plate ID is in the sixth digit of the MODEL number.

Active LSD is the only model that has V as the sixth digit.

Bit belated response, but am only recent owner

cheers :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...