Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

am wondering atm to change the front bar i have on my car atm (BN on most 32's) and go for a full GTR kit for the GTs-T i.e. Gtr front bar, gtr skirts, gtr pods(not sure on these), gtr bonnet and grill, and a gtr rear spoiler. Anyone have any ideas on how much this will cost? And how hard to source this stuff? Also would like the small inserts as in the picture below/attached. Any opinions appreciated aswell on whether to keep going with the BN or go for the GTR kit.

Cheers.

post-29200-1148287727.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118960-gtr-kit-for-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Whats a BN?

Off the top of my head some approx prices:

GTR copy front bar: $450

GTR side skirts - keep the gtst ones, theyre better, if you dont have them, budget another $500

GTR read pods - keep the gtst ones or as above fork out another $300

GTR rear spoiler $200 Maybe cheaper, noone wants rear spoilers anymore.

GTR bonnet - $700 plus latches

GTR grill $200

In my opinion if you have the stock side skirts and read pods, just remove the rear spoiler and get a gtr front bar, dont worry about the rest.

------------------------------------

http://www.nismo.com.au

- R32 GTR STYLE FRONT BAR FOR R32 GTS-T

- INCLUDES SPEED HOLES FOR R32 GTS-T

- MADE FROM GEL COAT FIBREGLASS - READY FOR PRE-FIT THEN

- PRIMING AND PAINTING.

- N1 STYLE BAR SLOTS ALSO AVAILABLE

FRONT BAR PRICE: $550.00

BAR SLOTS PRICE: $150.00

---------------------------------------

http://www.justjap.com

- has a GTR frontbar

http://www.carmate.com

- has whole GTR kit

Edited by Rekin

Who cares if its a fake gtr, its got more than 1 reason for it.

1. Bonnet - i bought mine for $400 in perfect nick. it came with new latch mech. It weighs less than 10kg so a weight saving for the gtst.

2. grille - well about $150 second hand

3. front 1/4 panels - also made of aluminium so another weight saving there.

4. gtr indicators are required

5. rear wing - dime a dozen on the forum sale section.

6. u WILL need gtr side skirts as they are completely different.

7. rear pods are the same.

8. he never said he wants to badge it a gtr, so dont judge anyone.

The 32 gtr has the best factory body kit imo. Im currently putting together the stuff to put the front end on myself. I dont pretend my car is a gtr, nor do i bag anyone for what they want their car to look like.

At the end of the day its his car, and he can have it look the way he wants. Dont flame the guy, help him. Its what these forums are for, but most people forget....

  • 2 months later...

GTR bar wont fit. need to get fibreglass GTR bar to suit GTST, i just bought one from JS Auto Imports. Excellent quality and fit. Also does N1 vents and lip, grills etc. Give him a ring. 0405 153 290. his name is Josh.

Hi all,

am wondering atm to change the front bar i have on my car atm (BN on most 32's) and go for a full GTR kit for the GTs-T i.e. Gtr front bar, gtr skirts, gtr pods(not sure on these), gtr bonnet and grill, and a gtr rear spoiler. Anyone have any ideas on how much this will cost? And how hard to source this stuff? Also would like the small inserts as in the picture below/attached. Any opinions appreciated aswell on whether to keep going with the BN or go for the GTR kit.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...