Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi. I am about to make a deposit on a Nissan Silvia. However, the person who I am purchasing it through is selling it for his dad, who has moved to Queensland. The car is registered in the dad's name. I will be buying it unregistered.

What can I do to ensure the deal goes through smoothly? Will I need to have the son provide a signed contract from his dad? Will he signing it for his dad be enough?

The last thing I want, is to buy the car, then have it reported as stolen by the dad when I go to register it.

Thanks in advance guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118996-buying-a-car-indirectly/
Share on other sites

Hi. I am about to make a deposit on a Nissan Silvia. However, the person who I am purchasing it through is selling it for his dad, who has moved to Queensland. The car is registered in the dad's name. I will be buying it unregistered.

What can I do to ensure the deal goes through smoothly? Will I need to have the son provide a signed contract from his dad? Will he signing it for his dad be enough?

The last thing I want, is to buy the car, then have it reported as stolen by the dad when I go to register it.

Thanks in advance guys.

Go on ya gut if ya dont feel right dont do it...

If want to be safe i would...

1/ make sure the vic roads paper work looks good (rego papers)

2/make sure there signed in his dads name

3/ask to talk to his dad by phone(hes only in QLD not the moon)

4/Ring vic roads and make sure all fine

5/Pay by bank cheque( in the owners name) not cash

^ oh yeah make sure its got compliance plate.................good luck buddy

Selling it for his dad? or possibly the car belonged to the kid, was driven by the kid, maintained by the kid, and the rego is in dad's name so the insurance can be in dad's name and the kid can save some $$$? :)

I'd want at least a faxed (signed) letter from the father allowing the kid to sell the car and act as a proxy, and DEFINATELY talk to him on the phone and make sure it's all kosher.

in all honesty though, i'd put my money on the car actually belonging to the son, and it was just registered in dad's name to make insuring it easier!

my 0.02c

Are you sure R33-Lovr? I have spoken to a few people and they seem the have the belief that if you have a letter from the father giving permission for the son to act as a proxy in the sale, that is acceptable.

Yep am sure i had my previous R33 under my mums name whos a pension when i came to sell it i rang the RTA (NSW) and asked would it be possible for me to sign in the blue slip on behalf of my mother with a letter attached from her saying i could sell register the car on her behalf and they said no, i only asked them because i already had a letter from my mum signed to do so but it was no use.

i could only register the car but cant sell it.and i still had to provide her pensioners card.

Maybe its different in Vic best thing to do is ring your Road and traffic authority, i think they r callec Vic road or something but thats how its in syd.

Trying to remember back from when I bought my car...

You should check if there is any finance remaining on the vehicle. Even if you buy the vehicle from them , if they skip the country the finance company can reposes the car. Ring Vehicle Securities Register (13 11 71)

For a small fee you can receive a certificate that I believe will protect you from repossession. Well worth it. I think it cost me $8

Check with Vicroads if the vehicle is in the Stolen Vehicle Database.

Good Luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...