Jump to content
SAU Community

How many Stagea owners does it take...  

306 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 292
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...
hahahahahahah!

10% of the population - almost 23% of the stageas

WA FTW!!!!!!11!!!!!

Newbie,

Tamborine has a population of 4,000, and we have TWO Stageas.

At about 150 for 20 million our effort works out at, shit you figure it out.

Tambo Rules as the Stagea capital of Australia.

  • 2 weeks later...
:P hi guys,just picked my stagea up last week.bought it without even test driving one.must i say what a bloody nice wagon.very suprised ,i dont think im gonna regret this purchase.series 1,97, 66,000km.viva nissan,top job. :P
:( hi guys,just picked my stagea up last week.bought it without even test driving one.must i say what a bloody nice wagon.very suprised ,i dont think im gonna regret this purchase.series 1,97, 66,000km.viva nissan,top job. :P

Welcome aboard, Anthony. Where abouts are you located?

thanks mate,im located in concord [inner west] sydney.i love this forum..ill get a bit of time soon and get to a couple of easy mods like the boost bridge,it will be nice to see how much better the thing will go at constant boost from get go.ill let you know how i go.it goes to show how much we miss out on thanks to those tuff import restrictions when these rs4 were released.it would be nice to know why they held this back from getting imported to our local nissan dealers back in 1997?they are a great package,very impressed.well done Nissan.id love to take the gtr version for a rap. :cool:

Welcome aboard, Anthony. Where abouts are you located?
thanks mate,im located in concord [inner west] sydney.i love this forum..ill get a bit of time soon and get to a couple of easy mods like the boost bridge,it will be nice to see how much better the thing will go at constant boost from get go.ill let you know how i go.it goes to show how much we miss out on thanks to those tuff import restrictions when these rs4 were released.it would be nice to know why they held this back from getting imported to our local nissan dealers back in 1997?they are a great package,very impressed.well done Nissan.id love to take the gtr version for a rap. :cool:

Concord, too easy!

I'm just past Parra. Smack bang in the middle of Parra and Blacktown, actually.

I hope you'll be bringing your new beast and displaying it at the Show and Shine in just over two week's time... :thumbsup:

I've just joined the stagea ranks today! :)

Pearl white , leather sat-nav auto etc..

BTW anyone know how to fiddle with the satnav and TV to get them working?

Only hours into it and the solenoid boost mod is done and K&N panel filter is in.

Next up split dump & front pipe.

Ahh I could kick myself. That boost mod makes soooooo much difference in the stagea, much more than I ever noticed it in the gtst. Its a must-do for everyone with standard boost.

Sorry to be noobish, what boost mod are we talking here?

boost mod is to cut the black wire on the boost control solenoid and earth the part of that wire coming from the solenoid to the body. The connector part going back to the ecu remains cut.

Normally you have only 4psi of boost before 4500rpm, then it goes to 7psi. Using this mod gives you the full 7psi at all times.

I just worked out that the satnav requires a japanese only CDROM for maps and the tv is ntsc...doh!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...