Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmm bait then for a bigger fish ???? lol nah I found when i had fish as long as the tank was a bit dark for the first month they normally all survived. On top of checking the water constantly

BBLLLUUUGGGHHH!!!!

well i'm off to bundaberg 2morro for 2 whole damn weeks of glorious overtime and perpetual on call fun filled hijinx :)

i'll be sure to post some pics of the respray job when i get back tho!

keep on truckin yall :(

Yeah Isacc my car is sorta back together

Im gonna run the high flow at track day as i dont have the time to do the GT30...

My injectors have arrived too so im not waiting on any parts now. The new disc are in and the new pads and fluids are all done. The new clutch is in and biting hard and the car is now sporting a new 250rwkw figure...

In short i have a new company car and dont drive the skyline enough, but im liking the fuel economy im getting from the VZ...

I have a list of stuff ill be selling once the conversion is complete but until then its all being used...

I do have a heavy duty clutch and pressure plate with 70% meat still on it. Plus a full set of standard disc's and some brake pads with 90% meat still on em...

The new rotors are really good they just dont fade...

Its probably a combination of the disc, pad & fluid. But yeah i got the best brakes ive ever tried now...

well i'm pissed at the brake setup i have.. about a year ago i put in new dba slotted rotors and bendix ultimates, pads wore down after 12months and had eaten away at the discs (guessing due to the harsh metal content of the pads) to the point where they only just scraped through minimum thickness after a basic machining (werent warped either). I only did one trackday too :(

I have a list of stuff ill be selling once the conversion is complete but until then its all being used...

I do have a heavy duty clutch and pressure plate with 70% meat still on it. Plus a full set of standard disc's and some brake pads with 90% meat still on em...

hmmm well dont know if id go back to standard rotors unless i was being a tightarse, but i could be interested in the clutch - mines only a few months old but im convinced theres someting wrong with it, gotta get dan to have a look and see

Ill sell my clutch to ya for a carton of coronas... Cold of course... The clutch and pressure plate was worth $600 when i bought them a year ago...

As for the rotors, anyone who wants the whole set and the pads can have them for a carton of caronas also...

The brake pads were $200 and still have 90% meat, and the rotors are worth a few bob i reckon...

But ill post up a for sale thread soon, when i have time...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...