Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can't lay-by a car :( Rest assured though that once my probation at work is over I'd like to get another decent vehicle. I'm currently undecided whether to get another nice car, or to just get a decent car and upgrade my bike :)

I can't lay-by a car :( Rest assured though that once my probation at work is over I'd like to get another decent vehicle. I'm currently undecided whether to get another nice car, or a decent car and upgrade my bike :)

all depends on what you wanna spend and what you wanna get?

Dunno yet, don't really want to let the cat out of the bag but don't want an econo-box. As far as a bike goes, if I was going to upgrade to something a little newer than what I have, I'd probably go to a current GSXR1000. I like them, a lot.

I'd probably go to a current GSXR1000. I like them, a lot.

*wipes saliva off bench* get the bike! there is nothing to think about! get the bike! GSXR1000 are a very hot bike! also, unbelievably quick. apparently they have gone down in price too lately. if you test ride the bike before the car, you wont get the car. CAR -> :( <- Bike

Heh yeah I know, I'm avoiding taking one for a test ride because I know I'll be offering body parts to buy one. It's amazing how far bike development goes in a few short years... high 9's out of the box, handling that would have put it at the front of Superbike grids not so long ago, and brakes that don't fade after repeatedly slowing from speeds on the silly side of 200km/h - all things that make a huge difference at a trackday.

The last Gixxer Thou I rode had 191rwhp according to the owner, and fark me it felt like it. It'd lift the wheel off the throttle in third at silly speeds, and the speedo climbed so fast... it was terrifying but I couldn't stop cracking the throttle :(

Then I got back on my stock Fireblade and, don't get me wrong, it's still damn quick, but it just felt very ordinary after the heavily modded Gixxer.

Bikers are tempoary citizens.
I used to work in a hospital. I wish I was paid for every time I heard that saying... but I'm still here aren't I? lol
Cars FTW. More comfortable, certainly fast enough for my needs, more useful, and where do you put your GF on the bike, eh?
She gets on the back, of course :ninja:

I'll let you know how impractical a bike is next time I pass you in a traffic jam :( If you've never ridden a bike you won't understand the appeal - it's not just about how fast they are or how far you can lean over... it's just a totally different experience. I enjoy my cars just as much as my bikes. Oh, and you can find a park just about anywhere.

Mark, why does your profile say you drive a GTS25T?
Because I do. It's not mine, but Karen lets me drive it from time to time :)
hey mike, that... thing from your avatar... I remember seeing her on the news before, but cant remember what for?

Can you provide more info?

:( my what now? which avatar? i get bored and change them often?

I like bikes but they just don't seem to pull up quick enough with me on them..... go figure?
*pictures Dave on a CBR125*

*uncontrollable rofl'ing*

Why don't you buy my car Marc?? You know it's history and I will do you a good deal??

I can't buy anything for at least another 5 months lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...