Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes, any aftermarket cam gear made for the rb26 will bolt onto the rb20...

i personaly run trust gears as they are a VERY quality piece of kit, im happy with them.

its not hard to install the cam gears if you follow directions for removing the timing belt properly, and im sure there is a thread somewhere on here about how to remove and install a timing belt.

you will need to remove the valve covers tho while installing the gears as you need to be able to hold the cam inplace while removing and installing the gears, if i were you i would wait a bit and save for some cams (which makes a TREMENDOUS diffrence) so that all the effort isnt wasted on just a gear install.

also remember that it's be easier to move the cam with a large shifter by the CAM than trying to move the whole crank etc to line up the 4 degree marker on the cam gear.

will be interesting to see what kind of difference they make on the rb20

in and ex gears on rb20 typically make 10-15 rwkw. Question though... if getting a workshop to do it, is it worth doing it when replacing timing belt, eg. biiiig labour cost? or is it a matter of loosening and little labor cost involed?

timing belt has to come off to fit gears so its only a matter of new parts to go back on...

negative silver gtst, whole timing belt needs to come off, if you pop one of the cam wheels off, you will never get it back on again without either damaging the belt or f**king up the timing
It CAN BE DONE. Simply mark the belt where it matches to the TDC mark on the "current" cam wheel. Remove the camwheel, then align the mark to the TDC mark on the "new" cam wheel, then pop the wheel back onto the front of the cam. Might need a spot of stretching, but it's not impossible.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...