Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am also looking at using either a SAFC or PFC. Is there really much benefit in going for the PFC for a mildly modified car? My mods will be exhaust, FMIC, 10psi, filter, thats pretty much it. Is it worth going for PFC, or would SAFC be ok.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but it is kind of on the same topic.

i have a 33 gtst with 3" catback and pod filter thats about it.

now im looking to add more mods, wat would you suggest?

im thinking an SAFC will i get much gain with these minimal mods?

Here is a dyno comparison from my R33 GTS25t with exhaust and intake. Only modifications between the two runs is getting rid of the factory dual stage boost control and putting in an R32 wastegate actuator, and tuning the car using an S-AFC2.

Hope this helps :O

TuneComp.jpg

Get a boost controller before SAFC2.

SAFC2 won't help on a car running stock boost.

Quinny a safc will help by triming the factory standard rich settings if you still wish to run standard boost. But it will make a bigger difference when you up the boost. Check out the site in my sig mate it should answer most of your questions and the tuning guides are written in the order id suggest to do your mods. Also do a search heaps of info on here too.

cheers

Thanks Munna1, I have had a look at your tuning guides, and my mods are pretty much in line with the Stage 1 guide. I already have exhaust and pod, I will be getting a FMIC and boost controller soon. I will change boost to 10psi, other than that, I don't think I will be doing much more with the car because it starts to get into expensive mods after that. Around 180-200rwkw would be nice. I am just not sure whether it will be worth the extra $500 to get the PFC if the SAFC will do pretty much the same job.

power gain would be dependant on how well the stock ecu is running. if it is running poorly then the power gain would be bigger, but if the stock computer is atually pulling its weight then power gain would be less. i got 204rkw with stock computer and turbo and my afr's were above average for a stock ecu, according to the dyno operator, so my power gain would be less than someone who's afr's were up the creek.

as far as afr's go, performance gains between pfc and safc would be very little, it is just the fact that the pfc can control timing and other things that makes it a better unit.

also if you have an auto then forget a pfc and just get a safc.

id recommend the SAFC II if you dont have enough cash to get a standalone ecu..

here is my last dyno printout when i had my SAFC2 tuned..

rb25det R33

HKS 2530kai turbo

3" Exhaust turbo back (custom twin pipe dump)

Custom exhaust manifold

Electronic boost controller

FMIC

SAFC II

Blitz pod

BOV

post-29255-1148697092.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...