Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i have done a search but obviously i can't find anything on this website regarding what i need to know.

and this isn't a topic like... what turbo do you think is best.

basically i have a VQ30DET motor and i am twin turboing it. i figure the power output would be very similar to an RB26DETT..

basically i want to know what turbo's will work, and come on boost at a respectable rpm and make big power.

i'm chasing somewhere aound the 500rwkw mark..

i already have a GT35 garret turbo with a .63 exhaust housing and i was thinking about using 2 of these turbo's but i don't think i will have full boost till after 5,000rpm and when they are rated at about 500HP each turbo then i think it might be a little overkill.

so are there any GTR's out there making something around 450 to 500 kw, i'd like to know what turbo's they are using and when they hit boost. the other thing is that the VQ30DET has a rev limit of 6500rpm, i may extend that to 7000rpm but i need to have some useable power.

also yes this is a single turbo engine, i am making twin turbo manifolds for it.

I probably wouldn't want to use the term "come on boost at a respectable rpm" when your aiming for 500rwkw. RB26's are over square so that doesn't promote good boost response but I am not sure what VQ30's are. I would guess they are under square given the "lowly" 6500rpm limit.

Twin t67's will get you there. Keir wilsons gtr uses these but I doubt they will come on boost before 5000rpm on a 3 litre.

If the engine is in a 300zx you will have serious room issues as well.

it is not in a 300zx.

when i say come on boost at a respectable rpm, i mean anything below 5000rpm. i dont' want lag. i.e no boost on gearchanges.

i'm still chucking up the idea of leaving one big single turbo, or twin turbo's...

i already have a Garret GT3540 with a .63 exhaust housing which i'm sure will make teh power with 2 of them, but can anyone tell me when boost might hit?

if you guy's can say what hp rating the turbo is and when they might hit full boost.

thanks guys.

Edited by tai_180sx

By my calcs you'll need ~ 67lbs of air for 500Kw (670Hp) so about 33.5lbs per compressor for 2 .

Something like a pair of 48 or 52 trim GT2835's should get there easily enough . I don't think I'd go beyond 52T GT3037's if the rev ceiling is 6500-7000 . A pair of GT3540R's could potentially do 800Kw but I don't know of any T28 flanged turbine housings for them which you will probably need to keep the turbos and manifolds compact .

Cheers A .

Actually would a VQ35 be a better option given the limited rev range ?

Out of interest, what car will it be going into? I considered a vq30det swap about 18months ago but was put off by the lack of wiring information (and cheap bolt on manual gearboxes) at the time as i had limited time to take the car off the road to do the work.

I agree, would be running 28/35s or or disco potatos, if you have the room you can run 25/40s, they are an upgraded gt28 with 0.7ar comp cover, 0.64ar exhaust housing. they will flow at a good rpm but retain throttle responce. Anybody telling you to run gt35/40s are kidding themselves.

By my calcs you'll need ~ 67lbs of air for 500Kw (670Hp) so about 33.5lbs per compressor for 2 .

Something like a pair of 48 or 52 trim GT2835's should get there easily enough . I don't think I'd go beyond 52T GT3037's if the rev ceiling is 6500-7000 . A pair of GT3540R's could potentially do 800Kw but I don't know of any T28 flanged turbine housings for them which you will probably need to keep the turbos and manifolds compact .

Cheers A .

Actually would a VQ35 be a better option given the limited rev range ?

i'd like to stick to the garret range of ball bearing turbo's if i can...

so the only problem i am seeing is if i go internal or externally wastegated. ok so say i go for two GT2860R turbo's which garret say are good replacement turbo's for the GTR and they are rated at 400HP each. that should mean i would get 800HP worth of air flow, which would make me around 500rwkw at 20 odd psi... right?

so this is probably the biggest garret GT28 series turbo before the go into the GT30 range and run the bigger 0.7 front cover.

by the way this motor is in an extensively modified 180sx...

i spose the biggest problem is that i'd prefer to got a bit bigger than a bit smaller if you get what i mean. i don't mide driving cars with big arse turbo's. as long as i don't get lag between gear changes thats all i want.

the more power the better, but it's already at the point where i'll have no traction on teh street anyway...lol

No , not all GT30 turbine based GTBB turbos need to run the large .70AR ratio TO4S comp cover . These are only used with the 76mm 7/14 blade TO4S dinosaur compressors or the 82mm GT40 compressors .

The GT3071R runs a 71mm compressor and can use the TO4B cover (like the 2871R's do) or the TO4E cover they normally get and like GT2835's do .

Compressor cover families go T3 T04B T04E TO4S . The basic GT25 ball bearing centre section is almost the same ftom the smallest GT2554R up to the GT3540R (GT3582R) and all that really changes is the flange on the compressor end of the bearing housing . The smallest compressor stages are 54mm and the largest 82mm so the bit behind the compressor has to grow to suit 54 , 60 , 71 , 76 and 82mm wheel families . Then you have an aluminium backplate or adapter ring to make what are basically "T" series covers bolt to modern cartridges , once they are internally profiled to suit the compressor wheel that is . This adapter ring has a groove machined in it and butts up against a lip on the compressor end of the bearing housing and is locked in place with a large internal circlip . It fits on from the front and has a O ring to seal it up .

Cheers .

thanks discopotato been a big help, you obviously know what your talking about...although i don't understand all of it..lol

can i just ask one question..

if i go with twin 400HP GT28 style turbo's, what sort of rpm should boost come on and what power would i be able to pull at 20psi??

i realise its not a definate answer, but an educated guess would be fine.

Would be guessing, nobody knows what engine mods you have. remeber you are running two turbos off half the engine capacity. basically a 1.5litre engine pushing each turbo. would be keeping exhaust housing small for this reason. You still get the combined volume which will see you good power.

thanks discopotato been a big help, you obviously know what your talking about...although i don't understand all of it..lol

can i just ask one question..

if i go with twin 400HP GT28 style turbo's, what sort of rpm should boost come on and what power would i be able to pull at 20psi??

i realise its not a definate answer, but an educated guess would be fine.

OK here’s your problem. In typical Nissan manual gearbox fashion I bet you have around a 3,000 rpm drop on the 1st to 2nd gear change (ie; ~7,500 rpm to ~4,500 rpm). So you need a pair of turbos that make full boost at 4,500 rpm and at the same time have the airflow to support 7,500 rpm without dropping of boost. That narrows the search down somewhat.

When I was looking at twin turbos for the RB30, our turbo supplier (GCG) suggested a pair of Garrett 2871RS with the 0.64 turbine for circuit work and the 0.86 for drag. They come in T25 and T28 flange patterns. This was based on what the VG30 guys were running successfully (both 3 litres). Keep in mind we have largish cams, extensive headwork, 9 to 1 compression ratio etc etc. How this compares with your set up is important

:) cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

yeah i talked to GCG today and they definately suggested 2 GT3071 turbo's with .63 externally gated turbo's. said they'd be on boost at 3500rpm and will make 450RWKW on 15psi. said they have done this before and know this for a fact. so i think this will be the way to go.

anything under 4000rpm is great for lag and can easily make the power i want.

what do you guys think about this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...