Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To clear the above question regarding the side indicators on R32's it is my understanding that when compliancing these cars it depended on the person compliancing the cars interpretation of the ADR relating to the indicators.

Basically the ADR says that they are only required if at a certain angle the front corner indicator is not visible. But if you look at your front corner indicators they have a bit that protrudes at the edge with a second bulb. This allows the indicator to be seen from a greater angle to the side (and rear) of the car than would be otherwise possible. So some compliers obviously felt this covered the ADR while others were not certain and took the "its better to be safe than sorry" option.

correct.

personally, id luv to rip mine off and fill in the holes...

Edited by 32line

Here's my Midnight Blue Pearl R32 GTR. I couldn't find any members rides or intro threads so I thought I'd post some pics up here.

A few minor mods so far:

Engine:

Apex'i intakes and pods

3.5' 5zigen exhaust

Suspension:

Apex'i N1 coilovers

Nismo front and rear strut braces

Wheels and Tyres:

19 x 9.5 Axis Deepdish in shadow finish with 265/30 ZR19 Nankangs

Interior:

Nismo 320km/h cluster

Momo Race EVO steering wheel

Nismo leather gear knob

ICE:

JVC DVD headunit with 3.5 screen

Pioneer 6.5 splits

Pioneer yellow cone coaxials

Kicker L7 12' square sub

Kicker 1000W RMS amp

Kicker wiring

Hope you'll like it. :thumbsup:

Travis.

post-39099-1182067290_thumb.jpg

post-39099-1182067492_thumb.jpg

post-39099-1182067993_thumb.jpg

post-39099-1182068314_thumb.jpg

post-39099-1182068584_thumb.jpg

post-39099-1182068777_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...