Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my mate will spray it free and ill fit it so a bonus there :D

if that is with the bottom lip its probably not too bad a price, i want the one identical to yours with the holes, any idea of the vin number of a car that came with one standard?

Edited by 2630GTS

Those holes are N1 vents. To get a genuine GTR N1 front bar costs a packet and they are rarer than you can imagine, and Nissan will not sell you one. The genuine vents are worth like $300+ (just for the vents) but few people have real ones. Mock ones can be found starting about $50 on ebay etc.. A genuine GTR fr bar will not have indents for the slots at all so you would have to cut them out... not sumthing you want to get wrong!

There are comapnies that make fakes for like $550 they have indents, so you can pop them out and buy some vents to put in there so thats about $600 before paint and fitment..

im pretty sure it is a nismo option rather than only fitted to n1 32gtr's, they are simply too common on gtr's. im sure many owners could confirm this.

ill give nissan a call tomorrow cheers :D

You could option them from nissan when buying the GTR also, but the vents are called N1 vents. The genuine vents themselves are worth HEAPS. And I promise you Nissan will not be able to help you with them. Mine are fake, 32line's are too, another friend I know had them and they were fake. They are common because a lot of people get the fake ones.

Hey Rekin nice rims I am keen on these from Just Jap, what size and offset are they?

Thanks :thumbsup:

17x8 +30

17x9 +30

I might have some troubles lowering the car as the rears stick out a fair bit. Dont think its an issue with the GTR's but :huh:

Are you sure the guards will need to be flared?

Ive got 19 x 9.5 with 265 rubber on the rear. Apart from the guards being rolled, I certainly dont have them flared..

Got a couple of cool photos ;)

DSC02411.jpg

DSC02406.jpg

DSC02524.jpg

Edited by Yidz
I've got the same wheels, same size and lowered.. so U need to roll and flare the rear guards

DSCN2547.jpg

Cheers

rolling i can deal with, but not really keen on flarring..

Can you post a pic of a closer look at the flarring?

Also how low is your car from centre to wheel arch?

I think my shocks will drop the height to 340mm and hope i wont need to flare..

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...