Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is my car turned around and getting ready for the gear box to go in soon

I will do a build thread for this car soon enough. The 30/26 is just about ready to go

The front bar is just zip tied on at the moment but it will be held on correctly soon. Im just going to a friends place who has a hoist to put the gear box in and will do the bar at the same time

006-22.jpg

Edited by waxracing

my hcr32

Zvoort45.jpg

Zvoort13.jpg

with 18 inch alloys wich I do not prefer as they are very weighty and a tad oversized

DSC_0004.jpg

but still not happy with how it looks atm, needs serious lowering + 17inch dished alloys, but since I'm using it as a daily driver, and my front lip is already kissing the 15 speedbumps I have to cross every day, it will be scraping like hell :nothappy:

Yes I know it needs more low.

IMG_4867e-1.jpg

IMG_4949E2.jpg

First track day at Sandown, cars best lap was 1.27.10 on kumho ku36's

IMG_2483.jpg

Active aero front grille :) Needs more self tappers

IMG_2449.jpg

Heathcote drags 13.10 @110mph on same tyres (yes my rear door is a different colour)

126205808oo1lzouowebsite10SAUDragDay39.jpg

dude what are your wheel specs?

there they are 17x9 -5 F and 17x9 +25 R, atm im running +10 at the rear, and ive lowered the front as well as pulled the guards out further to clear the wheels at the front. when ur running as much lock as i am with 235/45's u kinda have to push them out wide like that. they sit a lot better now tho.

63520_152755941412340_100000338067281_335522_7192402_n.jpg

63015_431523631108_693631108_5429743_7445786_n.jpg

59372_146594232045023_109368819100898_191624_5251698_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...