Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm going to BD4s to get my F-CON tuned... basically I have no choice but to go there as they are the only ones in Australia who can tune it :)

I've been in heaps of contact with Tom there and I'm happy to say that he'll give you all the time in the world with questions etc. Very nice guy to deal with.

My tune is on June 22, hope it goes well! Looking close to a $2k bill though :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119939-crd-vs-bd4s/#findComment-2209101
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for that Stan. BD4s would be good coz i live in the next suburb. Are they considered pricey, do they insist on using HKS stuff or can you supply your own stuff?

Oh and anyone used MRT performance, i know they do amazing stuff with evos - anyone with a skyline use them?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119939-crd-vs-bd4s/#findComment-2209134
Share on other sites

I'm supplying all my own gear bar one or two harnesses that I can't get myself. As for the HKS comment, then it's up to interpretation... they are the authorized HKS dealers in Australia so I would assume they'd be trying to push for their items being used :)

I wouldn't say that their pricing is expensive, it's just on par with all the other names out there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119939-crd-vs-bd4s/#findComment-2209187
Share on other sites

Well according to HKS USA both places are still authorised dealers, but BD4s is also a Pro Dealer, which means they have access to the tuning software for the F-Cons.

I've had a car tuned @ BD4s, they were on the level with me and pretty helpful. But your best bet is to talk to both of them and see who you're happiest with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119939-crd-vs-bd4s/#findComment-2209881
Share on other sites

Just thougt I might add that Performance Wholesale will direct you to BD4s for all F-CON enquiries... BD4s have access to information on that product that no other place in Australia will have - that's coming from another dealer so I guess it can be taken as true!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119939-crd-vs-bd4s/#findComment-2209891
Share on other sites

Anyone had any experience with either CRD or BD4s in Sydney for a R34? Do they only use expensive brand name stuff or is better to go to small tuner? This would be for minor mods - basically keeping stock turbo.

Anyone use Bankstown Muffler fit as well?

Thanks

What engine management are you using?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119939-crd-vs-bd4s/#findComment-2210762
Share on other sites

Talk to both and use who you are happy with. nNver used CRD, but did use BD4s for a good many years and whilst owning 3 Nissans,

They were a very professional, honest workshop, who did not take short cuts and where good mechanics as well as a good performance workshop.

have found so many performance places arent the best mechanics and only know how to half heartedly throw crap on cars in the hope they go quicker and fingers crossed dont blow up...forget fault finding, servicing etc to get a good reliable car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119939-crd-vs-bd4s/#findComment-2210854
Share on other sites

bd4s are authorized hks headquarters..no contract lost

cant go wrong with either...

if you have a street car use bd4s if u have a monster use crd

both charge a fortune but worth every cent...i used bd4s for the last few years and had no probs at all...

ps. yeah its brell..brell designs 4s...

Edited by thizzle
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119939-crd-vs-bd4s/#findComment-2223147
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...