Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi how are you all

thinking about making my car quicker... but safety first.. as mum says

i have a r33 gtst, my pads have nearly had it, but i was thinking about giving the car better brakes.

The car doesn't have ABS... what should i upgrade. what does everyone else do, how much will it all cost.

Thanks for your time

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120269-i-think-i-need-an-upgrade/
Share on other sites

how much power do you plan on running? r33 gts-t brakes are fairly good, i'd be more concerned about getting a good brand of tyre

keep in mind, if you can lock up your wheels braking, then your brakes are fine, it's your tyres.... (though don't make a habit of locking up your wheels, you'll flat spot the tyres)

replace pads with a good brand, and check rotor thickness, replace if required.

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

hmm, not too much roughly 230 ish at the wheels. its only 165 now

ive used to having tyres 9"wide with some decent yokohamas.

i had to down grade to stockies.... useless really, i hate them, barely legal tyres now. my friend kindly left some flat spots in them the other day, jsut to make my wet dirivng a little more challanging.

ill do the brakes after i get new wheels, i want at least 8" wide tyres.

what brand pads do people use, and how much do they cost??

im a uni student, and the power mods are already breaking my balls!!

thats why im keepling a tally of all the costs.

DBA 400 slotted rotors ~$220 ea

Ferodo DS2500 pads front (update when i get home and look at receipt)

Racebrakes RB74 rear pads (update when i get home and look at receipt)

Braided lines ~$200

Motul 600 brake fluid $piss all, go to ur local repco

That's what i was running on my R33 Stopped on a dime, came up to temp really good, no brake fade, excellent set-up for street use plus the odd track event.

For my 32 gtr i'll be running DBA 4000 sloted rotors, HAWK HT14 front pads, HAWK HT10 rear pads, rebuild callipers, braided lines and Motul 600 fluid. But this car will be used heavily for track work.

merlin -

keep in mind, if you can lock up your wheels braking, then your brakes are fine, it's your tyres

that is so very wrong. it just means your brakes are working. I could lock up bridgestone s03's with sock r31 brakes. they sucked.

i have a setup very similar to shanef above and its a good setup for hard road/timetrial/trackday use.

merlin -

that is so very wrong. it just means your brakes are working. I could lock up bridgestone s03's with sock r31 brakes. they sucked.

i have a setup very similar to shanef above and its a good setup for hard road/timetrial/trackday use.

definately a big difference between locking up on hard braking and sudden braking ..

the idea he posted was correct, but lots of variables obviously

the r33 gts-t brake lines from the caliper to the hose are shit.. what can i do to replace those?

also the best discs and pads are the dba slotted and the blitz pads with motul brake fluid.

the r33 gts-t brake lines from the caliper to the hose are shit.. what can i do to replace those?

also the best discs and pads are the dba slotted and the blitz pads with motul brake fluid.

take them off and go down to ur local autobarn and get them to make some braided lines up. make sure u get the plastic cover of the braide so dirt wont get in there and over time they'll fall apart.

wat do you base your theory that blitz pads are the best? what application do you recommend these for? it has been stated many times previous (from many people) that the ferodo's and racebrakes are the best for street applications with the odd track run.

however seeing as my gtr will be mainly used for track duties and hillclimbs etc, HAWK pads will be what ill be going for.

i started a thread regarding calliper uprgrades, i recommend you go and read what is in there as there is alot of great advice from people who actually know what they are tlaking about.

As an option, i have 33GTSt series 2. I picked up a set of standard 32 GTR brakes for a couple hundred dollars and they were bolt on. Made big difference to how it stopped.

i was under the impression that these are the same calipers anyway.

I concur with Craved, I believe i saw on that table Roy posted up ages ago in here somewhere that the 33 gtst and 32 gtr brakes are very similiar if not identical in caliper piston size. But i think configuration might have been slightly different, the details on that part evade me there sorry. Should find that table and repost it.

ok here it is. Courtesy of Roy from another post.

R32 GTST

Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4

Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4

Front rotors (diam x thk) - 280×30

Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2

Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18

R33 GTST

Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 23.8

Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4

Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×30

Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2

Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18

Now the interesting bit...

R32 GTR (Non V-Spec,)

Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 25.4

Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40.4 ×4

Front rotors (diam x thk) - 296×32

Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 38.18×2

Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 297×18

R32 GTR V-Spec / R33 / 34 GTR with Brembos

Master Cylinder diam (mm) - 26.9

Front Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - (44+38)×2 ... leading pistons smaller then trailing

Front rotors (diam x thk) - 324×30

Rear Caliper Piston(diam x qty) - 40×2

Rear Rotors (diam x thk) - 300×22

So there isnt much difference between the Brembos and the std Nissan R32/33 GTST calipers and R32 GTR calipers

yup.. r32 gtr brakes will make SFA difference as they are the same specs.. Only the condition of them would make any difference.

Also the rears on the R32/R33/R34 turbos and R32 GTR are exactly the same specs for setup, disc size, caliper. Again, only age would play the difference.

The DBA catalogue is a great reference for the different specs on the Nissan range to see any differences.

take them off and go down to ur local autobarn and get them to make some braided lines up. make sure u get the plastic cover of the braide so dirt wont get in there and over time they'll fall apart.

Would i be able to get some braided brake lines off here? (SAU)

I don't see why anyone would use any pads mroe expensive than bendix ultimates for street and light track, cheap and they are very good (bite and heat rating). $110ish for fronts

If you are doing serious track work its a bit different then go for something specific for the regular higher temps but there is a trade off in braking performance when they are cold which I think is an issue on the street.

now you guys have made me feel my brakes are crap haha the rotors were obviously the big difference. bigger, cross drilled etc. I did not spec the calipers but knew they were not that different. However, i still think they work alot better but that may be the pads that are used which i dont know what brand. They are good enough for what i do with the car anyway. But good to see the info you all came up with. As a new member, im impressed

Thanks

R Dirty 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the US almost everything is E10. It can't exceed 10% by much or fuel systems have trouble adapting. At the same time because MTBE, MMT, and TEL are all banned they need as much ethanol in it as possible to boost octane.
    • I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves. So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point: More Hot Air > Less Cold Air I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.
    • Nah, the OEM CAI pipe is still installed behind the bumper, it is about 5" x 3" oval at the engine side, tapering down to a 3" pipe behind the bumper where it gets all the ambient air it needs Engine side of radiator support OEM intake pipe "oval hole" that is right in front of the filter My OEM NC1 CAI pipe: From NC2 onwards, below pic, they come slightly smaller at 2.75" diameter with corrugations and a resonance chamber to reduce intake noise, lucky for me my NC1 has the bigger noisy one, LOL   Basically, the "sealed" airbox will just get ambient air from a 3" pre filter intake tube that is the same size, 3" as the rest of the intake pipe post filter, and if a 3" intake isn't big enough to flow enough air for 150 killerwasps then there are other issues The whole intake is basically the same length as OEM, but it is now about 30% bigger from the airbox back through to the new intake plenum than OEM, and the intake plenum is port matched to the head And the intake is now about 30% bigger than my 2.5" exhaust, so the suck, squeeze, bang and blow black magic should be fine, well, to my uneducated understanding of fluid dynamics anyway Talking the the guys at MX5 Mania, it may even make a few more killerwasps as the intake isn't sucking hot air, especially off idle or when in slow traffic when it would be sucking hot air  As for the difference in IAT, I haven't logged IAT yet, as I don't currently have a OBD2 reader, but I will have a play with my thermal lazer thingie next time I take the car out to sèe how hot stuff gets under the bonnet near the intake filter prior to installing the air box, my "assumption is it has to be much better after the air box is in and sealed up compared to what it is now The aftermarket "performance" CAI elephant in the room: Aftermarket CAI intakes typically have the air filter tucked up behind the bumper, with a 2.5" intake tube (the OEM intake pipe is actually about 30% bigger than the fancy pants "aftermarket" version.....WTF), and you need to remove the bumper to service the filter, which is a PITA Like dis:    
    • Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there. 
    • Evening, wanted to pop in and finally register to say hi to everyone here on SAU!   It's been a while since I've been active on a forum, but back in the day I used to be relatively active on ClubLexus and other hobby-related forums. I'm glad to see SAU is still around, since with the advent of Facebook and Discord it seems forums aren't what they once were. As a recent new owner of an S1 260RS Stagea, I've found so many older guides and helpful tips from SAU that I figured I needed to join and say a grave thank you. My recent acquisition has only become legal in the US for the past year, and knowing that similar car enthusiasts from across the pond have already figured out the kinks and tricks to get these 25+ year old cars running well. I look forward to diving into more of the SAU forums as well as hopefully contribute some info myself for future posterity.   As a pic tax, here is one of the few good photos I have of my Stagea. I hope to get way more in the future!    
×
×
  • Create New...