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In a recent thread I read that the stock ceramic turbine wheels fail because the bonding that holds the wheel on the shaft fails due to heat. So presumably those of us still running stock turbos can reduce the risk of failure by ensuring they dont get too hot. So - how are the turbos cooled? Is it by the coolant or oil or both?

If its by the oil, then perhaps a proportion of blame for many failures is due to the poor (non-existant) oil cooling?

Any errors in this info/logic?

Tnx,

Kot

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my understanding is oil for the bearings core etc and water thru jacket to cool turbo??

but the thing is none of these really contact the exhaust wheel as FATGTS-R mentioned which can still cook thru high temp exhaust from running higher boost than was designed for

the standard turbocharger is oil and water cooled.

the centre is water cooled and the bearings are oil cooled.

there are two main problems (likely ones) which cause the common failure

1# shaft craps itself and detatches

excess shaft speed and prolonged use causes it to fail and come apart. excess boost increase shaft speed beyond standard limits and its fails

2# exhaust wheel fails

exceess heat in the exhaust wheel housing causes the ceramic exhaust wheel to fail. the blades literrally detatch themselves from the shaft due to excessive heat, as the ceramic sweats and snaps off

3# compressor failure

#1 and #2 are more common but the 3rd one is from excessive compressor surge / compressor wear and tear. running no bov is a great way to cause this

i beleive nissan recommends standard turbocharger servicing at 100,000kms (aka rebuild). it used to be 50,000 before blow off valves were introduced.

busty2k is correct, with good tuning and some proactive measures you can certainly put in the best efforts to avoid turbocharger failure, or at least make it last as long possible

Hmmm.. I dont ever remember turbochargers being replaced as part of the scheduled service intervals? Not at least in any Nissan Instruction Booklet I've come across.. One would expect a ball bearing turbo to last at least 200,000km I'd say..

thrust bearing faliure is common.

basicly they just get brittle. not warmed down propery can kill them really quick.

ive seen stock standard ones have the rear turbo fail.

and ive seen ones boosted to 15 lbs with no probs

its a gamble and a prick to change the turbos in the car. the best ive mannages is 4 hrs drive in drive out for turbos on a 32 gtr...

To help minimise heat destroying the turbo there are a few basic modifications that make a large difference in heat dispersion. This being a good split dump off the turbo and good turbo back exhaust. The faster the heat can be dispersed from the turbo the more efficient it will operate reducing the chance of failure..

Edited by fEkuaR

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