Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

i just bought my first R34 Skyline and finding it hard to believe that i can only get 300kms per tank when cruising on low boost (6psi).

i understand that they drink alot, but cmon surely i can get more out of this motor? ive recently had a service & tune but ive been told by other rb25det owners that i should be getting more kms.

Can anyone suggest a place that specialises in tuning these motors?? VIC - Melb

cheers

Steve

Fuel consumption that severe could be the O2 sensor if you're doing lots of city driving, if you're not it may be pointing at something a bit more drastic.

I'm getting ~330kms from full to empty light first coming on and I've got ~180rwkw and drive it quite spirited most of the time.

If your car is stock standard I'd expect to see at least 450km or more when the empty light first comes on.

Sorry don't personally know of anyone I can recommend down there

Last time I think I read that Nissan want $400+ for a o2 sensor... Repco replacement for the Ford is around $80 :laugh:

I think I might give that a go too... although, when I plugged in the consult gear, the o2 wasn't reading anything abnormal???

EL falcon for around $82 from Repco.

Ive read numerous times that an O2sensor is good for only 40000kms, after that replace it.

My Stagea had shitehouse fuel economy, had 80000kms on it when I got it, and got around 230kms per tank (65litres), now after having the O2 sensor replaced I get 430kms per tank (around 60 litres).

I changed my O2 sensor.. TWICE, and it makes no difference. I checked both new plugs with some consult software, and they were operating correctly.

I've read hundreds of posts, and I don't recall anyone every saying that it fixed their fuel problems (apart from above) or gave anything more than 20km extra to the tank. =-[

It's not a magic fix, it seems.

I'm now searching for any kind of results from tuning AFR's with a SAFC.

Edited by RANDY

Yeah my O2 sensor doesn't affect my economy as I'm mainly doing more than 2500rpm...so the ECU is controlling fuel delivery. My O2 sensor is also a bit screwed with the ceramic/platinum tip snapped and rolling around in the end of the sensor (gives it really slow response)

I changed my O2 sensor.. TWICE, and it makes no difference. I checked both new plugs with some consult software, and they were operating correctly.

I've read hundreds of posts, and I don't recall anyone every saying that it fixed their fuel problems (apart from above) or gave anything more than 20km extra to the tank. =-[

It's not a magic fix, it seems.

I'm now searching for any kind of results from tuning AFR's with a SAFC.

whilst I might get way more kms then before, I should state that the Stag has spent a few hours on the dyno with 2 tuning stages, first tuning a SAFC (fuel went from ~230 to ~360), and now with the sitc, if I mother it a bit I'll be in the low 400's as stated, if tromped a lot on boost then high 300's (all before fuel light comes on).

replacing the O2 sensor, I feel, worked in my case. as far as getting GTR ones, Im not sure, Im poor and only have the lowly rb25.

ill have a look at the o2 sensor.

I have a 3.5" exhaust and ive also got a power fc that isnt installed yet. Will it help getting it installed????

The Power fc doesnt have a hand controller, so should i buy one or get a mechanic to tune it. are the hand controllers easy to use?

im also getting a back fire in between gear changes, could this be a possible sign for the o2 sensor??

cheers

Edited by Tough R34

i get about 12l/100km's... you can't really say i get such and such for a whole tank, because the tank is 65, but if you fill up when the fuel light comes on, you'll get like 45 litres in.

i've been doing 15litre fills the last 5-6 times, and getting around 120-130km's from that (when fuel light comes on) which works about to be about 12l/100km's...

you get a bit more accurate idea if you work out the litres/100km as opposed to a "tank" - check how many litres you actually get in the car, when the low fuel light comes on... you're not going to get 60-65 litres in that's for sure

Tough.

Yeah that was me.

I like your wheels. They go well with our colour.

If you haven't tuned your PowerFC, you will get some fairly good returns from a good tuning session.

Backfiring between gearchanges says much to much fuel is being supplied.

Talk to Ice or Racepace or any other reputable tuner and get it tuned.

You'll love it.

I get about 320klms out of 50 litres with normal driving.

If I stick the boot in, I can almost watch the needle going down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...