Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

i just bought my first R34 Skyline and finding it hard to believe that i can only get 300kms per tank when cruising on low boost (6psi).

i understand that they drink alot, but cmon surely i can get more out of this motor? ive recently had a service & tune but ive been told by other rb25det owners that i should be getting more kms.

Can anyone suggest a place that specialises in tuning these motors?? VIC - Melb

cheers

Steve

Fuel consumption that severe could be the O2 sensor if you're doing lots of city driving, if you're not it may be pointing at something a bit more drastic.

I'm getting ~330kms from full to empty light first coming on and I've got ~180rwkw and drive it quite spirited most of the time.

If your car is stock standard I'd expect to see at least 450km or more when the empty light first comes on.

Sorry don't personally know of anyone I can recommend down there

Last time I think I read that Nissan want $400+ for a o2 sensor... Repco replacement for the Ford is around $80 :laugh:

I think I might give that a go too... although, when I plugged in the consult gear, the o2 wasn't reading anything abnormal???

EL falcon for around $82 from Repco.

Ive read numerous times that an O2sensor is good for only 40000kms, after that replace it.

My Stagea had shitehouse fuel economy, had 80000kms on it when I got it, and got around 230kms per tank (65litres), now after having the O2 sensor replaced I get 430kms per tank (around 60 litres).

I changed my O2 sensor.. TWICE, and it makes no difference. I checked both new plugs with some consult software, and they were operating correctly.

I've read hundreds of posts, and I don't recall anyone every saying that it fixed their fuel problems (apart from above) or gave anything more than 20km extra to the tank. =-[

It's not a magic fix, it seems.

I'm now searching for any kind of results from tuning AFR's with a SAFC.

Edited by RANDY

Yeah my O2 sensor doesn't affect my economy as I'm mainly doing more than 2500rpm...so the ECU is controlling fuel delivery. My O2 sensor is also a bit screwed with the ceramic/platinum tip snapped and rolling around in the end of the sensor (gives it really slow response)

I changed my O2 sensor.. TWICE, and it makes no difference. I checked both new plugs with some consult software, and they were operating correctly.

I've read hundreds of posts, and I don't recall anyone every saying that it fixed their fuel problems (apart from above) or gave anything more than 20km extra to the tank. =-[

It's not a magic fix, it seems.

I'm now searching for any kind of results from tuning AFR's with a SAFC.

whilst I might get way more kms then before, I should state that the Stag has spent a few hours on the dyno with 2 tuning stages, first tuning a SAFC (fuel went from ~230 to ~360), and now with the sitc, if I mother it a bit I'll be in the low 400's as stated, if tromped a lot on boost then high 300's (all before fuel light comes on).

replacing the O2 sensor, I feel, worked in my case. as far as getting GTR ones, Im not sure, Im poor and only have the lowly rb25.

ill have a look at the o2 sensor.

I have a 3.5" exhaust and ive also got a power fc that isnt installed yet. Will it help getting it installed????

The Power fc doesnt have a hand controller, so should i buy one or get a mechanic to tune it. are the hand controllers easy to use?

im also getting a back fire in between gear changes, could this be a possible sign for the o2 sensor??

cheers

Edited by Tough R34

i get about 12l/100km's... you can't really say i get such and such for a whole tank, because the tank is 65, but if you fill up when the fuel light comes on, you'll get like 45 litres in.

i've been doing 15litre fills the last 5-6 times, and getting around 120-130km's from that (when fuel light comes on) which works about to be about 12l/100km's...

you get a bit more accurate idea if you work out the litres/100km as opposed to a "tank" - check how many litres you actually get in the car, when the low fuel light comes on... you're not going to get 60-65 litres in that's for sure

Tough.

Yeah that was me.

I like your wheels. They go well with our colour.

If you haven't tuned your PowerFC, you will get some fairly good returns from a good tuning session.

Backfiring between gearchanges says much to much fuel is being supplied.

Talk to Ice or Racepace or any other reputable tuner and get it tuned.

You'll love it.

I get about 320klms out of 50 litres with normal driving.

If I stick the boot in, I can almost watch the needle going down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...