Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Seeing as the power the new engine will be putting out, i figure i should go for an aftermarket gear set. Now i dont know what type of gear set i'll need, thats where you guys come in.

As most of you might know i'm building a 26/30 for my 32gtr and be running around 700awhp and it'll be set-up for track work, but want it to handle the odd drag meet.

I've had a quick look at what PPG has to offer and am unsure if i need to go for a full 5 gear replacement, or 1-4, or what not. Also what other options do i have?

cheers

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121193-ppg-or-os-giken-box/
Share on other sites

Someone must be able to add a coment in here.

Guys who run dog boxes can you explain what you run.

I'm tossing up between the PPG 5 speed dog box, or the OS Giken 5 speed with upgraded main shaft. With the OS being half the price of the PPG, is it half the quality?

What other alternatives is there?

i dont no much, but im pretty sure that you will need the ppg.from what i read they are alright to drive with on the street. check with the o.s importer but i think there gear replacment is rated to 650bhp.im not sure if that is at the wheels or gear box though. i also think u will need all 5 gears if you a building it for the track as you will be using 5th gear alot

See PAR GTR gearset

PAR have a 3-gear straight-cut gearset on the shelf, when I spoke to them a few weeks ago they said

in essence "give us your box, $4800, and a week, we will give you back a box rated to 750bhp"

(their words paraphrased, not mine).

They said they could make helicoil gearsets rated at the same strength; but that they needed

a couple of months to do so because they were not on the shelf.

Might be worth a closer look. Depends on the torque you need to put through it; at worst

you can say "I need eleventy-bajillion kw" and they can say "sorry, we can't help you"...

Regards,

Saliya

Edited by saliya

As sad as it is it's not all that unlikely that any gearset you get will have some issues at some point, especially with the power you're looking at. Some factors to consider:

- gearbox and clutch strength are measured in torque, not power - if you're making 700hpatw @ 7500rpm and that's peak then that's obviously more torque than someone with 700hpatw @ 8500rpm

- even given the above the ratings those manufacturers give are just estimates

- you'll need to pay for the box to get built too, not to mention any bearings+syncros that need replacing, plus the cost of oil and freight (it all adds up)

- you want a warranty and for it not to be near impossible to "claim" on it. there'll typically be two warranties too, one for the gearset and one for the gearbox build (i.e. build - if a bearing sh*ts itself, gearset - if a tooth breaks). so a local place with a good rep to both buy gearset through and do the build imo, one place and therefore not two companies blaming each other if something goes wrong

- the bearings, syncros and casing will be all standard (more or less), maybe even the output shaft (may depend on whether you replace 5th), and possibly some or all of the selector forks - any of those could fail, the casing may flex, there's still stuff that can go wrong

It might sound scarey but it's possible you'll have the gearbox for 10 years with one failure in there somewhere and a warranty claim, which given your power level would be a good run imo. Remember that even the big dollar holinger boxes have issues at times, otherwise people like tomei wouldn't stock spare parts :D

I know of a GTR with about 500rwkw that is a very fast circuit car that runs an OS box and hasn't had any trouble with it....

I also know another GTR with about 600rwkw used for dyno and drag with the OS box and hasn't had any trouble with it....

once my delayed virgin blue flight gets me home I'm getting picked up in a GTR with a PPG straight cut dog box there said to be the goods

I've been in a 32 drift car wit ha 25/30 combo with a 35R turbo big hp comes onto boost quite early and is brutal too

PM sne maskrock :devil:

Thanks for the input ferni, very interesting. Don't suppose you could PM me with details of their set-up, and also if they were only using the os 5 speed kit.

cheers

shane

Well both cars, as stated are making big power, the 500rwkw circuit GTR is a 26/30 aswell, and i dare say more torque than you will probably make

Its all about respect. Respect the gearbox and it wont die.

They are using the OS Cross Mission gearsets

Thats the thing, knowing me and what i'd tend to do is lean on the box, and i dont want down the track the box breaking and the car off the road again

Greenline have the complete 5 speed kit with uprated main shaft for tad over $3000

I mite just go with the trust dog box machrock has, depending on what price racespec can do an os kit for me though :devil:

This page has alot of info on different gearset and dog box ratios:

http://www.skylinepower.com/gearboxes.html

Remember that the prices are for gearset only. Add labour and any parts that are required for the box rebuild.

There is lean on a box... and then there is working a box hard, but respectfully.

If your not smashing it into gears and trying to shift faster than the box will allow, of course you will have problems... and no $$$ box will be able to stop you from munching it if your not being nice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...