Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have one and I cannot fault its performance. Quality of the piping could be better though, and you may require some modification of either the kit or your car parts to fit properly (eg in the R33 some trimming of the radiator fan blades may be needed to fit the piping).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121381-just-jap/#findComment-2237674
Share on other sites

I have one and I cannot fault its performance. Quality of the piping could be better though, and you may require some modification of either the kit or your car parts to fit properly (eg in the R33 some trimming of the radiator fan blades may be needed to fit the piping).

thx for that appreciate ur help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121381-just-jap/#findComment-2237767
Share on other sites

You only get what you pay for. Look at the material and build quality of Jap kits (e.g. Blitz, HKS, Trust) and compare it to a $500 eBay job. It will speak for itself.

Then again, the eBay job might be sufficient for what you want. Always modify your car to a purpose or you'll get lost in a sea of parts. Work out where you want the car to be when you finish, and plan your mods around that. No use putting a top notch intercooler on if you dont plan on running some serious boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121381-just-jap/#findComment-2238305
Share on other sites

I have a Just Jap cooler, almost all my friends have Just Jap coolers, never seen one of them with a problem, and they seem to cool just fine.

That being said none of us are running huge horsepower or huge boost, so I can't comment on that. For dailydriving cars or cars with basic mods I don't see how you can go past them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121381-just-jap/#findComment-2238353
Share on other sites

Thx for all the comments not looking to for hudge power just want a cooler that that will work well not looking to boost my car past 10 psi besides r34 gt-t turbos not recomended to be boosted past 10 psi.

thx for all ur help looks like i'll be getting one. :unsure:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121381-just-jap/#findComment-2238752
Share on other sites

Thx for all the comments not looking to for hudge power just want a cooler that that will work well not looking to boost my car past 10 psi besides r34 gt-t turbos not recomended to be boosted past 10 psi.

thx for all ur help looks like i'll be getting one. >_<

On my old R33, i was pushing 211rwkw on the std turbo, with a justjap type 1 kit. Had the kit for well over a year and held up very nicely. It also was used for trackwork with no dramas.

Installed many of these kits for people on SAU, and definately a value for money kit.

No need to pay the famous brands for their marketing and its not always "what you get is what you pay for"

Definately the kit is a easy 10/10 :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121381-just-jap/#findComment-2247796
Share on other sites

the problem with the delta fin is there will be more damage to the fins if a rock bounced up and hit it because of the design, but thats me nit picking.. has anyone had any experience with the delta fin because im thinking of getting one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121381-just-jap/#findComment-2247963
Share on other sites

the problem with the delta fin is there will be more damage to the fins if a rock bounced up and hit it because of the design, but thats me nit picking.. has anyone had any experience with the delta fin because im thinking of getting one.

Have you seen them up close? I dropped by there yesterday and was having a look at one for my R32 and took some pics, let me find them and I will post them up.

VERY nice looking intercooler!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121381-just-jap/#findComment-2248122
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...