Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Im pretty new to these forums and the like, I am buying an R32 Godzilla soon and I need to know what is the best Insurance company that will cover me, as a 20yo with no previous accidents, a "impropper lighting" fine (Had parkers on instead of full lights one night :S) and Car is slightly modified but on the upper hand it will be always garaged and im in a safe neighbourhood. (I heard these factor contribute). Going to buy the car in 2 months or so from now so I'm trying to get my mind set around what its going to cost me per year to run this beast without just diving into it and perhaps making a descision that I will regret.

I have been a Classic Adelaide Rally volunteer and stage marshall assistant for the past 3 years. Maybe shannons is best choice because of their involvement in local and international circles of motorsport?

Any feedback would be great, thanks.

  • Replies 904
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

just got the car today and was wondering with insurance what would help me get the lowest premium. should i register the car in my mothers name? (im 18). the car has an alarm and immobiliser and is parked in a remote control lockup garage. also which insurers should i have a look at? what should i look for such as no claim bonuses? thanks in advance for any help guys. love the forums.

Try lumleys or torque (division of lumleys). I am 20 and with a clean driving record and a bit of haggling my car is insured for $12500. Full comprehensive cover for $600 a yr. Only catch is its a $1000 excess, but any minor work under a grand yous should be able to afford anyway considering you can afford to buy the car. If you cant pay dont play.

Try:

Just Cars

Famous

or Shannons

Insuring it in a parents name wont work. Insure it under your name so you can build up no claim bonus yourself.

Have you had a car insured in your name before? If so, you should have some no claim bonus available to use (even if you only had 3rd party insurance).

If not, suck it in and pay for the damn insurance.

Try:

Just Cars

Famous

or Shannons

Insuring it in a parents name wont work. Insure it under your name so you can build up no claim bonus yourself.

Have you had a car insured in your name before? If so, you should have some no claim bonus available to use (even if you only had 3rd party insurance).

If not, suck it in and pay for the damn insurance.

Don't forget Vigil and Ryno. Plus there are a heap of others, ring around it's worth it to get a better policy and potentially save hundreds!

insurance is a joke these days. i had my other car insured with just cars

my name

20 yo

p plater

2 loss of licences

$2900 per year for a non turbo supra

$1800 excess

i dont have insurance for my gtr yet

21 now

p plater still (for a while)

3 loss of licences

and a stack that wasnt my fault

$3400 per year for a nearly stock gtr

f**k insurance i reckon

Lost your license 3 times? Im not surprised its so high. Its more likely that you will crash it then you won't so they have to put premiums that high so they actually make money.

Its not they they are giant blood sucking corporations, they actually do have to make money to stay alive.

Lost your license 3 times? Im not surprised its so high. Its more likely that you will crash it then you won't so they have to put premiums that high so they actually make money.

Its not they they are giant blood sucking corporations, they actually do have to make money to stay alive.

Your one of them! hahaha :happy:

Edited by SAZilla
no no no... more money for them... Tell you what everyone ill start my own insurance company... "Pauly's dodgy insurance". be just as good as all the rest.

You seem to miss the part where I said capitalist pig :yes:

How will pauls dodgy insurance counter the extreme high risk of insuring people like us without ridiculous premiums?

Looking for some advice before I make a few calls in the next couple of days. Been with Just Cars since I got my car stock in May 2005.

Started off insured at $18,000, with a premium that was about $2400 from memory. After just a few weeks I had a claim of about 5k after an aquaplaning trip into a kerb :sick: That all went smoothly & everything as the cops showed up about 5 minutes after it happened & seen the area blah blah blah.

Next renewal, car had gone from nearly stock to gt30r, gate, ecu, full exhaust etc & the excesses were increased but the premium was $2062. Just got my latest one now & they want to drop the agreed value to $16,350, the overall excess is down a couple of hundred but still $2500. Best part is they want the premium as $2281 now.

I'm thinking of the most polite way to call up & say "Lick my weld you pricks". This renewal was printed just before I added the engine build too, so they would probably want to bump it up even higher.

I'm moving to Queensland in one week (the 26th), the same day my insurance is up. So during this time my car will be in transit, but I'm looking for other quotes.

21, 1 claim, rating 5 (not sure when it will become rating 4)

Will be based in Queensland (Coolum or close to, I would like to think safe area? :P )

1995 R33 Gts-t fully built except injectors, but no kit (read: pretty much a sleeper, except for front bar decals)

Clean driving record

Will be garaged, "maybe" not immediately but DEFINATELY will be.

At the moment I would prefer a pay by the month thing as well. Shannons is an option but 21 is still probably going to be a bit pricey. I stayed loyal with JCI because the claim was smooth, but I don't really want to stay with them now. Famous were willing to match them but a bit higher with pay by the month, they are my first choice but are Perth-based and I am going to Qld.

I've heard good things about Torque, I believe they are based there? If anyone can put me in the right direction with them or other companies that are familiar with this sort of cover it would be quite helpful, cheers.

nathan i am with torque and am only paying $758 a year 93 gtr insured for $30000 but then i am ancient with 60% no claim bonus and clean record (only few speeding fines in the past) they even allowed cover for stereo whereas most will only give you a set amount back if a stereo is stolen mine is full replacement

hey i read through a few pages here, im on dialup so cant go through 30 pages,

i just got a 1994 toyata soarer with lexus badges on it, its a V6 non turbo auto.

Ive called racq, nrma, budget, and suncorp, all of them either wont ensure me cause im under 25 (23) or cause its an import.

I will call some of the companies mentioned in this thread on Monday, but anything over $1000 and i dont think i will be able to afford it??!?!? :P

For someone with experience how much should i expect to pay?

hey i read through a few pages here, im on dialup so cant go through 30 pages,

i just got a 1994 toyata soarer with lexus badges on it, its a V6 non turbo auto.

Ive called racq, nrma, budget, and suncorp, all of them either wont ensure me cause im under 25 (23) or cause its an import.

I will call some of the companies mentioned in this thread on Monday, but anything over $1000 and i dont think i will be able to afford it??!?!? :P

For someone with experience how much should i expect to pay?

if you go to the justcar website (google it) you can get an online quote, this is very accurate as you can actually take out the policy you recieve. i dunno how much you should be expecting but they will see it as a performance car being a 2 door jap, also being an import and a young driver i would think it will be over the 1k mark your hoping for.

having a nice car is expensive :D

good luck anyways mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...