Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering how much of a difference Slicks would make compared to street tyres on the 1/4 mile

my car ran 13.5 on street tyres @105mph (traction problems) what would you be hoping for roughly with slicks?

Got new b/button clutch now aswel and have added split pipe new front pipe and h/flow cat

Edited by TOYR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122039-slicks-vs-street-tyres-on-track/
Share on other sites

for 13.5 ur doing pretty good for the mdos you have, the car must have alot of mid range power and up top. My previous 33 ran that same time at 107mph and my 60"'s were 1.8s. Saying that my gear changes were pretty granny like.

Not sure if they'd make a huge improvement, i'd say only a few 10ths max.

its got 34gtt rims 235x45x17, tyres are the cheapest u can buy proper tyres not remoulds, but tyres are crap as no grip whatsoever.

Ohh there not the only mods car has,

got fresh engine

fmic

steel wheel trb

custom box,cold air intake

boost control on 11psi but drops to 9 top end

all the basic stuff and got that time down the qtr

my clutch went that night so it now has been replaced with the exdy b/button kit

i have also now added the split dump pipe,new 3inch front pipe and hi flow cat, hopefully goin to run it again this week or next.

so just wanted to see if its worth going threw the trouble of getting the slicks on to get a good time or if its not gona do much, taking into account the details

Edited by TOYR33

Yeh i agree with dave. I was runnnig 255 wide Hankook K104 tyres on the back and 18psi tyre pressure.

If you've got the money, why dont you spend it on other mods that will make a bigger difference time wise.

Also i'm not sure if there are many people that are using straight slicks, most run semi's.

ye thats true, the only thing was take of that was reking the times, 2.3-2.6 60'' is crap, especially now with the b/button clutch spins like crazy,

with the slicks my mate will let me borow his so wont really waste any money there,

the car makes 202rwks, my mate with simular pwr managed a 12.87 his 60'' was like 1.6 or 1.7, thats using the full slicks so ye

whats ppls best times with say 190-200rwk in a r33 ? using street tyres

Dude if its no hassels then just do it hey. Me personally tho, I would say maybe not dump the clutch at the same revs you would with normal tyres. More grip the more chance of snapping something.

ye thats true, the only thing was take of that was reking the times, 2.3-2.6 60'' is crap, especially now with the b/button clutch spins like crazy,

with the slicks my mate will let me borow his so wont really waste any money there,

the car makes 202rwks, my mate with simular pwr managed a 12.87 his 60'' was like 1.6 or 1.7, thats using the full slicks so ye

whats ppls best times with say 190-200rwk in a r33 ? using street tyres

Ran a [email protected] with around 200rwkw, stock turbo, 13psi, FMIC, SAFC, with street tyre, 2.02 60'. Bring the 60' down to a 2.0 and you should be capable of a very low 13

Ran a [email protected] with around 200rwkw, stock turbo, 13psi, FMIC, SAFC, with street tyre, 2.02 60'. Bring the 60' down to a 2.0 and you should be capable of a very low 13

Thats awsome, id be wraped with a low 13, what u rekon of a 16inch tyre with the bigger side wall and just flatten the pressure down, i heard that works really well if its got a big wall so it has flex? has anybody tried that? and what were you 60'' times like

Edited by TOYR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...