R32: Removing Hicas (gts-t)

[eXc]

If anyone has things to add or things that I have not explained easily/incorrectly. Please let me know via PM.

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Removing HICAS On An R32 GTS-T, RB20DET

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The R32 has hydraulic instead of electric HICAS like the R33. I have not found any tutorial that I have been satisfied as being easy to understand. So I wrote this.

From reading other posts, it appears that some 32's must be different to mine. But anyways, this is how it worked on my car.

I don't know other cars, I only know my car. So it may differ. Don't bother asking about different cars.

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Tools Needed

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I forget everything. But;

- screwdrivers,

- BIG shifter or a...30mm? open ender.

- Various sockets.

- Tie rod end remover depending on how you plan to do it.

- Knife

- Jack and Car Stands - DO NOT JUST USE A JACK

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Parts Needed

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- Something to block up 3 lines. I used plastic wine corks (really...)

- Hose. I was lead to believe you could just use one hose. I couldn't. I needed to have 1x 3/8th" hose and 1x 1/2" hose. I then needed a reducer to join them. Use Power steering or transmission hose. I got about a foot of each and cut them down to suit. I actually needed about 1 foot in total

- Hose clamps for the above hoses. I needed 4. I didn't want to re-use the ones that were already on the car.

- HICAS Lock bar

- Power Steering Fluid - Dexron 3

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Removing The HICAS

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First up, if you are like me and have the HICAS bar with tie rods attached, you can skip steps 2-4. However you will need to get the tie rod ends off obviously.

1) Jack car up, put on stands. DO NOT USE JUST THE JACK. You will be needing to put a lot of effort to undo things. Use car stands.

2) Remove Wire on HICAS boots

3) You are using car stands aren't you? Good...Use the BIG shifter or the correct size spanner if you have it (Which I doubt unless you're a trucky) to crack the rod end. DONT screw them out all the way unless you have the outside end of the tie-rods off.

4) Undo the Fluid lines - Expect fluid to come out! (duh)

5) Plug fluid lines

6) Undo the 2 bolts that hold the HICAS in. 17mm I think from memory

7) Take the HICAS unit out.

8) Do everything in reverse.

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By-Passing The HICAS Solenoid

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When you put the HICAS lock bar in, you have a few choices. Some bypass the HICAS solenoid (and the whole system towards the rear of the car). Some loop it at the back using high pressure fittings. Some modify the power steering pump.

I chose to bypass the HICAS Solenoid as it seemed to be the easiest option.

1) Read the whole tutorial before you start.

2) Look at Diagram 1. You need to locate the Hoses marked in RED.

3) Look at Diagram 2. This is one of those hoses.

4) Remove this hose where I have circled. Attach the 3/8th hose here. Use a hose clamp.

5) Look at Diagram 3 & 4. This is the other hose (or atleast where it joins back to the metal pipes). Unscrew this fitting. Attach the 1/2 inch hose to the pipe (the 'male' thread) again, use a hose clamp.

6) Join the hoses with your reducer, using hose clamps.

7) Plug the female part of the lines underneath the car. (I used a plastic wine cork, grinded ribs of it, tapered it a little and it screwed in...

8) Top up the power steering fluid, run the car, check for leaks.

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Removing Everything

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Ok, I didn't do this as yet. But you should now be able to take all the lines, solenoid and whatever the extra bit at the middle/back of car is...I am guessing it's a secondary pump?

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Other Things

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1) Check for leaks after running the car a while.

2) Take a short (cautious!) drive

3) Get a wheel alignment.

4) Re-check power steering fluid

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Some other links

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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=58778

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=93183

[Ih8wrx]

Hay was just reading this cos im having some trouble doing my lock bar and the way u have described it is very VERY different.......but was just woundering if u would still have had to change the tie rod ends over?? which is my problem

i have posted it on boost http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=441886

i know i will need to replace the tie rod ends but i just want to get it all back together in the car. the problem im having is the part that is connected to the tie rod ends to the new lockbar.....if that makes sence...

[eXc]

Looks right to me, just undo the rods from the HICAS and put them into the lock bar

[Ih8wrx]

hay really sorry for posting in here but it says it wnt let me send u a message until i post 10 times or somthing?? anyways i cant get them undone they just keep turning plus the thread in the lockbar is very small and everything on the hicas is bigger so even if i do get them off i cnt see anything threading into the lockbar.....if that makes sence??

[eXc]

It's cause you didn't crack them while it was mounted...

3) You are using car stands aren't you? Good...Use the BIG shifter or the correct size spanner if you have it (Which I doubt unless you're a trucky) to crack the rod end. DONT screw them out all the way unless you have the outside end of the tie-rods off.

You will need to mount them back on, or find a way to crack them hard and fast so it doesn't spin (ie. it's like needing a rattle gun on a pully)

[Ih8wrx]

ok so to make sure what im doing. i have put the hicas back on, and bolted it all up again. the boots are removed showing to 4 sided nut. i put a big shifter on and it just turns freely.....i have tryed holding the other side with another shifter but i cnt get it to move at all then. is that what ur talking about??

[eXc]

pretty sure you need to have the rod / ends in as well, then they will stop it spinning. Crack the big nut, then remove the whole lot again. dont do more than crack it, as you will bend the rod if you take it out while its still on.

[bad_rb20]

im looking to do this on the weekend, when you guys say crack the tie rod ends. what ecactly do you mean?

thanks

Nathan

[eXc]

Loosen it like 1/4 of a turn. They are done up really tight and when you pull them off you can't get them loose. If you undo them too much, you will bend the rods.

[bad_rb20]

no worries cheers for that:)

[bad_rb20]

another quick question. where you have plugged the female end, i had a quick look last night. it seems this pipe is attached to the HICAS system, so in effect when you attach the pipe from the lower male pipe to the top attachment near the battery tray, it looks as if this pipe with the female end would be cut out and it is part of the hicas system which you would be able to remove, im probably wrong as ive only taken a quick look and havent actually done it but just thought i'd check

Thanks all

[Rhysee]

I found this guide easier to understand - http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=185697

[32_Dave]

another easier option is.

1. put the lock bar in.

2. buy a rb25 steering pump or remove the tabs in the rb20 and block the rear of the pump with the hicas lock bar accessories.

3. remove all the hicas lines and solinoid that are no longer attached or in use and hurl them as far as u can.

4. tap a grub screw into the power steering res where a line will be removed from step 3.

5. and f**koff the hicas ecu.

took about 1hr in a mates 180sx and has not had a single drama.

Edited January 26, 2010 by 32_Dave

[heller44]

dave, the hicas ecu provides the variable assist for the power steering as well, you don't really want to throw it out in a skyline..

[32_Dave]

dave, the hicas ecu provides the variable assist for the power steering as well, you don't really want to throw it out in a skyline..

dont need it, if you do away with pump / solinoid. no hicas electronics left in my 32

Edited January 27, 2010 by 32_Dave

[heller44]

Your choice, but I actually like having power steering. I had the same power assistance as what you have now when mine wasn't working, found it crap. my opinion.

[32_Dave]

Your choice, but I actually like having power steering. I had the same power assistance as what you have now when mine wasn't working, found it crap. my opinion.

what setup you running thoe?

[heller44]

Setup? only things that will really make a difference are tyres and weight.. 235/40/17's and all the 4wd malarkey.

[32_Dave]

Setup? only things that will really make a difference are tyres and weight.. 235/40/17's and all the 4wd malarkey.

wtf are you talking about?

i meant hicas lockout / deletion setup.

[heller44]

Thats why I had no idea what you were on about. I still have all the crap installed, but before I fixed it the steering rack solenoid was disconnected, same as removing the hicas module. The electrical signal going to the power steering modulation solenoid, the one on the steering rack, comes from the hicas module, without the module, you get no signal, so you get no solenoid actuation, which means you have permanently heavy steering.. Which you obviously like, but I don't.. Each to their own. Unless you have another way of powering the solenoid or swapping in a non assisted rack.