Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

dude.

I was about to ask exactly the same question.

WOW

I have just picked up my Extra Heavy Duty Cushioned Button clutch and it's lighter than my Fiance's new GTI.

It's very off putting.

How many Ks have you done in it and it is run in yet?

Has it changed at all?

hey mate, i have one of these in my car and it is just slightly heavier than the standard one but clamps down way harder.

Did you lose your fluid when u changed the clutch or did u just disconnect the slave cylinder from the box. If you left the slave in place and disconnected the fluid line, you may not have bled it properly or you may have a stuffed master or slave cylinder that wont bleed up properly.

Mike.

Edited by HKS-R33

i have 1 also in my car at first it felt like a hyundail clutch... i bled it a few times and i also adjusted the clutch master clylinder so that there was hardly any slack wen i depressd the clutch pedal in... besides its better than gettn leg cramps specially in stop go traffic

  • 2 weeks later...

I also have one in my 33 and i drive a toyota hilux work ute all day long.when i jump in the r33 at nights or on weekends it feels about 5 times heavier then the ute. But for a ceramic button clutch they are light, and grip well...i was doing redline drops at QR with 255 semi slicks and had no clutch problems at all. Still havent. Full slicks will put it to the test someday when i get back out there :yucky:

After many more running kilometers and a week in a Toyota Echo in Broome, I can say that my clutch does actually feel quite good.

Still not as solid as my last clutch, but still nice.

Progressive and only shudders slightly.

BASS OUT

Nope.

the Group buys ones are the organic heavy duty.

Mine is a Sports Tuff, cusioned Ceramic Button.

Totally different clutch.

Massive bloody price difference too.

hey bass, you may not have seen the clutch i was talking about, there are two available, the one i was reffering to is:

2. Exedy Button Kit incl:

* Exedy 5 puk plate

* Daiken Pressure Plate

* New Bearings

This kit can handle 300rwkw

$425

that sound like the ones u guys are talking about doesnt it?

i have to say i'm not 100% confident in that clutch. very few rivets holding the centre together = possible failure point. i've seen a number of exedy sprung centre clutches fail with springs popping out etc. and solid centre ones fail with the rivets shearing in half. but to be fair you could not 100% exclude improper installation in all cases.

nope

different.

The one you are talking about there is a Heavy Duty.

The sports tuff is different again.

See pics.

It's a much more developed clutch.

Mine was about $1200

ah ok i see what u mean by 'developed' it certainly looks fancy!

so for ~3x the price what is the real world difference between the two?

If you look closely at the new exedy range, sports tuff is nothing more than a name which covers a particular range of "sports" clutch kits.

From their website, it seems the Sports tuff units are australian made, although I have just put a HD unit in a mates r31, it was a sports tuff kit with the homosexual colored pressure plate, but the clutch plate was still a exedy japan unit.

As you can see in these links, it explains the different units, but not all of them.

http://www.exedy.com.au/products2.asp?type=sports%20tuff

http://www.exedy.com.au/products2.asp?type=racing

This link shows the part numbers for an R33 GTS-t.

http://www.exedy.com.au/catalogue-details.asp?id=38999997

Bass Junky, I am not sure exactly what your clutch is, but I know that predator just recently put a Cushioned Button Sports in his R32, and the clutch plate is identical to yours. His pressure plate was different, but I assume you have a later model 33 with push-type arrangement?

That being said, predator paid around $450 for his......

Gee exedy know how to make it confusing hehe

I am so confused by this whole situation...

I killed my clutch last thursday at the sau qld drag night...

I need something new anyway due to the upgrades im undergoing atm. So i need a clutch to handle 300rwkw and still stand up for a drag or a circuit. Plus i dont wanta spend a fortune. But after all the searching i have done i am more confused than when i started...

Obviouslly i want the cheapest option possible but dont want to have a clutch that is a bit borderline either.

If you are in Vic, then come along to the August Club meeting.

The Exedy head designer (in Aust) is speaking at our meeting.

Should be really really good.

My car is an R34. hence why things are a little more expensive, pull type.

I am so confused by this whole situation...

I killed my clutch last thursday at the sau qld drag night...

I need something new anyway due to the upgrades im undergoing atm. So i need a clutch to handle 300rwkw and still stand up for a drag or a circuit. Plus i dont wanta spend a fortune. But after all the searching i have done i am more confused than when i started...

Obviouslly i want the cheapest option possible but dont want to have a clutch that is a bit borderline either.

Col, you probably been told this a few times already, speak to Jim Berry. Although i presume you might have and got a fright at the cost?

I am no clutch expert myself, but thought for that kind of power level, you be looking at atleast some sort of button clutch in the exedy range. Jim Berry clutch is suppose to hold a heap of power and still have a nice pedal feel and easy to drive on the street....i did say supposedly :)

He is in qld, go have a chat to him hehe

Yeah i had a chat to Jim on Monday...

HE has a clutch setup he can do that will hold 300rwkw but he was not confident it would hold up at the drags.

He suggested to go to a twin plate, but the down side is that their noisy and expensive...

So im sorta stuck atm.

I also spoke to direct clutch which said they could make up a custom organic clutch for about 800 which would do the job but again, not recomended for drag racing.

So im sorta doing heaps of research from US websites about drag clutchs and their street applications.

So give me time.

I have sent an email to them giving them every detail possible about the way i drive and the power figures and so forth.

Ive asked them to tell me whick one is the best one to get.

So ill post up their responce once i get it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...