Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

The other day I made a cold air induction pipe for my 33 GTST. The actual pipe I bought cost $15 from magnet mart and some cable ties which are like 2cents each.

Here are some pics of the final result..

Works a treat!

atchmnt1

atchmnt2

atchmnt3

-JD

Edited by JD-33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122374-15-cold-air-intake/
Share on other sites

Awesome man its look good!! cheap as well which is a bonus!!

So im guessin u got a fmic, and dont use stock piping??

Got any tips for ppl who still use stock piping??

i got snorkle anyways, but would love to put more cold air for my pod.. (using mr_crusts heatsheild box for stock snorkle)

yeah man, got a FMIC which frees up a hole below the POD..

will take some pics of the inside when i get a chance.. i forgot :D ..

yeah me and my mate are designing some CID pipe for his car which uses stock IC ..

will let you know how it goes..

Cheers,

-JD

nice one...I have done exactly the same but with the Al pipe. Next seal the pod in a box...if u already havn't done so. As for water issues...had this type of setup for ages on all my cars....never had a problem...some have a BNC filter and others the Unifilter...

the filtering properties of a Unifilter for example has dust retention properties of 4microns (paper is 30 and cotton gause is 45!) however with a large enough service area it has been proven to get roughly 25% less restriction than paper filters...and about restriction as a std K&N cotton gause type.

anyway the conbination of the oil soaked foam and the fact water is much greater size than 4micons means ur pretty safe I reckon...(although I don't know what the actual size of water is but its much greater than air/dust!)

Edited by khunjeng

I've ran a 100mm dia cai which is larger than the one in the pic here.

In 4years maybe slightly more and 150,000km's.. Never had a problem.

People worry too much. :domokun:

I've been though those big aquaplaning puddles that you can't see when driving in really heavy rain.

I checked the filter soon after, it was dry the cai did have a little mist in it.

just for the idiots out there, when you drive through a puddle, unless it is about 6 inches or more deeper, the front bar doesn't touch it. it is you wheels that splash it. the front wheels are behind the front bar, so there is no water splashing into the cai.

I just re-used the elbows and piping from my stock intercooler setup (through the hole that was left after the install). Sits inside the front bar perfectly and didn't cost me anything other than 15minutes of thought and half an hour of installation.

I agree with the "no water" thing, and if you are really unsure, just tilt the CAI so it's always pointed downwards, even if water gets in, it'll just run out again.

for water drainage i have pierced small holes in the underneath and backing of it... (used a pin todo so)

its very secure, ive taken it to 175 and she doesnt move at all, this is because the piping is like a slinkee, and i made it longer than as you see it, so when is in there with the cable ties its applying pressure towards to front of the car and ud towards to cabin..

the pipe has no brand, i just asked for an aluminum pipe which is flexible..

cheers,

-JD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...