Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bit dissapointed.

32 GTR

1st up quick list of mods

rebuilt motor

JE pistons

standard crank and rods every thing else replaced.

To4z a/r 1 rear .70 front

50mm ebay wastegate with 12psi spring

hybrid boost controller electronic

PWR cooler

3.5inch exhaust

power FC

put it on the dyno today to raise the boost from 19 to 25psi

had 403kw.

my boost controller won't go higher than 22.5psi. its maxed out wont turn any more.

my question is should i spend the money on an e boost 2 like my tuner reccomends or will a stiffer wastegate spring do the job?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122507-my-gtr-maxed-out/
Share on other sites

Why are you using a cheap Hybrid boost controller on a car which this amount of work?

ditto on the ebay WG ..

if you want more boost

always try to get the WG's spring as close to the desired "low boost" setting you want, and that shouldn't be far from your MAX boost either ..

allows for the best form of boost control. get a better WG and spring and you wont need a boost controller.

yeah i know. i bought it for my old r31 with rb25det. but couldnt fit it.

then i bought the GTR and it had a greddy profec but it didnt work.

so i had this lying around and put it in.

i was going to have 19psi low boost for street and 25psi hi boost for dyno and drag days.

i thought you couldnt get springs rates this high??

where do i get them?

just bought a new tial external gate

has 1.2 Bar springs in it .

Expensive???

i just want the spring.

swap?

haha

just joshin

hoping that an eboost 2 will keep the gate shut .

had a couple of inconsistant ramp ups on the dyno, varied from 380kw to 420kw on 22.5psi. depending on when the gate would open

Expensive???

i just want the spring.

swap?

haha

just joshin

hoping that an eboost 2 will keep the gate shut .

had a couple of inconsistant ramp ups on the dyno, varied from 380kw to 420kw on 22.5psi. depending on when the gate would open

same thing my ebay one was/is doing, hence the upgrade to tial 38mm

i payed around $500 for brand new tial 38mm.. not sure if that would be big enough for you, think it would. that was with the the 1.2 bar sping .. so 18psi - actually runs 2 springs for that pressure

i posted a thread about sizing etc

here it is

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=43638&st=0

aaron @ sliding performance - slide on the forums is who i got it from, ask him if he can get the springs for you

Why are you using a cheap Hybrid boost controller on a car which this amount of work?

Hybrid is a cheap boost controller? HAH you’re joking right? Its one of the best I’ve seen. Had a comparison on a dyno with apexi, greaddy even that Greaddy one with the screen and remote ect... None of them held the boost as good as the hybrid EBC... Hybrid held it perfectly steady with NO spike or imperfection on the graph and came on boost very quick, others came on boost late and build boost gradually and had little boost spikes. I don't know where you’re getting your sources about a Hybrid EBC because I’ve seen proof on a dyno my self.

I would suggest a stronger actuator sprig like everyone else would say. Personally I wouldn’t go with e boost.

Just my 5c...

Cheers,

Alex.

Why are you using a cheap Hybrid boost controller on a car which this amount of work?

i'd say why an ebay wastegate :yes:

which is the lesser of two evils i dont know... they are both equally as sour as the other

just pull the spring out and stretch it!

You have got to be joking?

Anyway, if your running a 12psi spring, and trying to bleed off to more than 22psi.

Thats madness.

Buy a wastegate that works, boost control is one of the most important things and you go to ebay...

Once you get a proven performance application item, get the gate loading as close as you can to the target boost... ie, you wanna run 24psi.

So simply get springs to 21psi (one 14psi + one 7psi) and then bleed the 3psi off that.

Hybrid is a cheap boost controller? HAH you’re joking right? Its one of the best I’ve seen. Had a comparison on a dyno with apexi, greaddy even that Greaddy one with the screen and remote ect... None of them held the boost as good as the hybrid EBC... Hybrid held it perfectly steady with NO spike or imperfection on the graph and came on boost very quick, others came on boost late and build boost gradually and had little boost spikes. I don't know where you’re getting your sources about a Hybrid EBC because I’ve seen proof on a dyno my self.

Was it on a 400rwkw performance application?

Or a stock turbo'd skyline...

i reckon i know which is more likely

Was it on a 400rwkw performance application?

Or a stock turbo'd skyline...

i reckon i know which is more likely

Have you even seen a Hybrid EBC ??

Not quite 400 but over 300. Catharine Caliro (Drift Cat) has one. Seen it on the dyno my self. I was there while it was getting tuned...

A boost controller has nothing to do with the amount of power the car is making. It only controls the boost pressure its quite simple. It regulates the amount of air passing thru to the actuator / waste gate its nothing to technical. And 25psi is not a great deal of boost for any EBC. I don't think I need to explain my self anymore this is common sense guys.

I just don't like people falsely rating Hybrid EBS's...

Cheers,

Alex.

Edited by 217/r33

This is how one looks like...

Hybrid use's the same solenoid as Haltech boost controllers and I think e boost might use the same one.

The rest of it speaks for it self. Don't judge if you haven't tried :no:

Just my 5c...

Cheers,

Alex.

FULL LIST OF SPECS ARE BELOW....

* In cabin adjustment for high boost and low boost.

* Overboost Feature - Hook up an external switch for adding 10% more extra boost.

Ideal for take off in low boost to reduce wheel spin, switch to high boost after you get traction then turn on the over boost function before the finish line!

Easy to install instructions are included. Very compact in size, so you can install it virtually anywhere in the cabin.

This popular product is the result of constant refinement on the street and track.

Hybrid's full electronic boost controller not only spools up the turbo quicker but also regulates

the boost accurately.

You can purchase the Hybrid Boost Controller in two different configurations:

1. Hybrid Electronic Boost Controller Type 2 to suit MAF (Airflow Meter)

2. Hybrid Electronic Boost Controller Type 2 including a Hybrid MAP Sensor. The MAP sensor version can be fitted to any turbo vehicle and allows for closed loop boost control for even more accuracy.

Hybrid 3 Stage Electronic Boost Controller Type 2

Ask a question...

Best of all, the kit comes with all the parts you need for your install:

* Electronic Boost Control Module

* Electronic Wastegate Solenoid (9 bar / 130psi pressure equalised)

* Bracket for Solenoid

* MAP Sensor (Optional)

* Silicon Vacuum Hose

* Wiring Harness

* Fittings

* Cable Ties

* Pictured Instructions

Supports MAF (Airflow Meter) on the following cars:

* Mazda RX7 FC3S (Series 4, 5) - 13B Turbo

* Mazda RX7 FD3S (Series 6, 7, 8) - 13B-REW

* Toyota Aristo JZS147, JZS160, JZS161 - 2JZGTE

* Toyota Soarer GZ20, MZ20, JZZ30 - 1G-GTE, 7M-GTE, 1JZ-GTE

* Toyota Supra GA70, MA70, JZA70, JZA80 - 1G-GTE, 7M-GTE, 1JZ-GTE, 2JZ-GTE

* Toyota Chaser GX81, JZX81, JZX90, JZX100 - 1G-GTE, 1JZ-GTE

* Toyota MR2 SW20 3S-GTE

* Toyota Celica ST165, ST185, ST205 - 3S-GTE

* Toyota Caldina ST215W - 3S-GTE

* Toyota Starlet EP71, EP82, EP91 - 2E-TE, 4E-FTE

* Nissan Cima FPY31 FHY33 - VQ30DET

* Nissan 300ZX Fairlady Z32 - VG30DETT

* Nissan Leopard/Cedric/Gloria GF31, Y31, Y32, Y33 - VQ20DET, VQ30DET

* Nissan Cefiro A31 - RB20DET

* Nissan Laurel C35 - RB26DETT

* Nissan Skyline R31, R32, R33, R34 - RB20ET, RB20DET, RB25DET, RB26DETT

* Nissan Stagea W#C34 - RB25DET

* Nissan Stagea Autech WGNC34 - RB26DETT

* Nissan Bluebird U12, U13 - CA18DET, SR20DET

* Nissan Silvia S13, PS13, S14, S15 - CA18DET, SR20DET

* Nissan 180SX RS13, RPS13 - CA18DET, SR20DET

* Nissan Pulsar RNN14 - SR20DET

* Nissan Aveneir W10, W11 - SR20DET

* Subaru Legacy / Liberty BF5, BC5, BG9, BD9, BG5, BD5, BH5 - EJ20, EJ25

* Subaru Impreza / WRX / STi GF8, GC8 - EJ20

* Subaru Forester SF5 - EJ20

* Suzuki Cappuccino EA11R, EA21R - F6A, K6A

* Mitsubishi GTO Z16A - 6G72

* Mitsubishi Eclipse D27A, D32A - 4G63

* Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution I, II, III, IV, V, VI CD9A, CE9A, CN9A, CP9A - 4G63

* Mitsubishi Lancer CD5A, CM5A, CK4A - 4G63, 4G93, 4G92

hybrid_boost_controller.gif

Well I know my AVCR spikes like a bitch.... Especially in higher gears

As does the one in my friends car. This is after absolutely ages spent adjusting the duty cycle, response time on the solenoid per gear etc etc before anyone asks me if I tried changing the settings.

Its not the worst controler in the world but I definately would not buy another one. In fact if I could be stuffed hauling it out and selling it and installing a new one would not be in the car anymore!

DK

50mm ebay wastegate with 12psi spring

my boost controller won't go higher than 22.5psi. its maxed out wont turn any more.

Regardless of what EBC you are using, you are bleeding off 10 psi which is simply too much.

Get a wastegate spring for the minimum boost you are likely to run.

My rule of thumb is never to bleed off more than 25%

For example if you have a 20 psi then + 25% = 25 psi

:( cheers :P

PS; I don't believe in high/low boost settings, if I want a lower power ouput I don't push the pedal down as far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...