Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do the RB25 stock ecus have a disliking for boost?

I have a RB25 with full turbo back exhaust, pod and front mount and without a boost controller it makes a constant 0.8bar.

On really cold nights, it misses quite a bit under full load. I have heard the stock ECUs like to retard themselves when theres extra boost being pumped in. DUring the days it seems to run OK under full load.

Any ideas? Would a SAFC/SITC combo or PFC help this?

CHeers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122658-r33-gts25t-stock-ecus/
Share on other sites

well seein as i was told this just 3 days ago search!!! lol

i had the same prob, thought it was coils, but yes 33 stock ecu sucks...

had a safc2 installed and it has fixed my probs :P

pfc or safc would fix this prob i think, but theres alot more knowledgeable ppl on here that could go further in depth about it.... or a 2min search ;)

RB25 ecu's have a air flow cut not a boost cut. When you hit the cut then you will know it - the whole engine cuts out and it feels like you just slammed the brakes on.

Sounds to me by your "missing" is that the boost is putting out the spark. My advise to you would be to gap the spark plugs down to .7 or .8 and try again.

You will be suprised =)

This is a known issue with slighty modified skylines - even stock ones. Works wonders.

Do the RB25 stock ecus have a disliking for boost?

I have a RB25 with full turbo back exhaust, pod and front mount and without a boost controller it makes a constant 0.8bar.

On really cold nights, it misses quite a bit under full load. I have heard the stock ECUs like to retard themselves when theres extra boost being pumped in. DUring the days it seems to run OK under full load.

Any ideas? Would a SAFC/SITC combo or PFC help this?

CHeers.

safc only gets rid of the problem if you are running lean. if you are running rich and use a safc to lean it out you may get boost cut earlier. only way to get rid of boost cut is to get a aftermarket ecu, such as pfc, or a fuel cut defender. the new fuel cut defender from turbosmart should set you back about $230, but you then need some sort of fuel computer to stop it leaning out.

mad082 you have got it the wrong way round. SAFC only works if running rich and you are getting air flow protection.

E.g

Before SAFC:

5 volts on the AFM triggers Air flow protection and is giving 9:1 air flow ratio (rich)

After SAFC:

With the SAFC you want to lean out the fuel mixture so you intercept the AFM signal and change the 5v reading to 4.8v. This will fool the ECU that there is less load there - hence less fuel will be delivered and it may not trigger air flow protection. I.e. youmay now get 12:1 AFR and no air flow protection

Also it has to do with how quickly the rise in Air flow occurs ...e.g how quickly you go from say 3v to 5v - this may trigger Air flow protection

P.s. all values made up. But AFM reads 0-5v

0v = no air flow

5.1v = A lot of airflow (enough to make 170rwkw+)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...