Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I might be heading OS for a year or two, and if so the GTR will be stored. Is there anything i should do other than disconnect the battery? How about taking the rims off so the tyres arent loaded?

Also, how much should i pay for security storage?

Cheers,

Kot

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122849-storing-a-gtr-for-a-year-or-two/
Share on other sites

there are heaps of things you should do if planning to store a car for that long. but the best way around all this is to get someone you know and trust to drive the car one ever 10 days or so for half an hour.

but failing that enuring the car is properly supported and removing wheels is a good idea, or put it on wheels with worn tyres on them (so you can through away when you pick it up).

also make sure the inlet is blocked up (dont want moisture getting in and rusting your motor) and release the fuel pressure from the system. also ensure your windows etc all seal very well. when you start it again you will need to crank it a little first to build oil pressure, with a little oil put down the bores to help lube it up. also leave oil in it, but not so sure about leaving coolant in it.

to be honest i think it's a bad idea if the car is literally not going to be touched for 2 years.

from looking at your sig your car is nothing out of the ordinary (fairly stock) so I would advise you sell it then buy one again when you get back.

Depends on far you want to go, cars I have known to be stored had lots of things deteriorate brake pads, anything made of rubber, clutch, earthing points (a biggy), interior (use those gel crystals that absorb water) to name a few. For the engine take off the tappet covers and spray every thing with at least lanox or heavier, without sparkies fill the motor to the top with a light oil and replace the plugs. Your valves and thier seats are the hardest to protect without getting oily shite in the zoorst but if you remove the manifolds its a breeze and tape up the holes. Condensation is your biggest threat, when the humidity rises in summer, it stays around and sits in places that it normal wouldn't, relays headlights etc.

If your past the Great divide its heaps better and the motor is your main concern.

There's a bloke up north here thats got a HQ Monaro that he has done up to look better than new. Anyway, he has the car in a sea container thats filled with nitrogen. He purges it every few months or so. He's also got a dehumidifier hooked up to it to stop the rust. As far as i know the thing is completely air tight and has a window built in the side of it so he can keep an eye on it.

He has had the motor lightly oiled but apart from that there's no fluids in the car whatsoever. He's got the thing on stands with the rims and tyres are still in there along with all the other bits and pieces that go with it.

The container hasn't been opened for about 10 years or so and it prolly won't be opened for another 20.

I would love to see that thing the day he pulls it out. It'll look bloody mint.

If only I had enough money to do up a R32 GTR and do the same.....

Just thought i'd throw it out there while we're talking storage

Edited by Ol_Mate

Have you thought of taking the car over??? If i was to go overseas for a few years i would probably consider this. I couldn't leave my precious behind :D.

Storage might end up costing just as much as shipping over.

If you cant find anywhere to store the car, PM me as I work for Shannons and we can offer a full comprehensive policy for the vehicle being in a Laid Up state, covering it against fire/theft/malicious damage etc etc.

Leave the oil in the car. There is no need to remove it. Its like oil sitting in the bottle you bought it in.

Some say to plug up your exhaust incase rodents etc get in but I say it'd be a blast to rev it up for the first time if any made a new home.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...