Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On behalf of the Honda Car Club NSW, I have pleasure in inviting members of Skylines Australia to our next Track Day, Saturday 17 May 2003 at Wakefield Park.

The morning will be like previous HCC Driver Training Days, with the track available for you to practice, and instructors available to ease your way onto the circuit.

The afternoon will be held as a timed supersprint. You will be able to see just how well you’re driving! Compare your times with your friends!

Safety is the number one priority, but fun comes a close second. Plenty of attention is given to first-timers, so don’t be afraid to give it a go.

Cost: HCCNSW Members $100

Non-members $120

For more info, call any one of:

Adrian 0417 411 006 David 0403 195 124

Michael 0422 443 686 Richard 0410 664 140

Download the Supplementary Regulations and Entry Form here:

* http://www.hccnsw.org.au/events/regs/2003-...ms_suppregs.doc

* http://www.hccnsw.org.au/events/regs/2003-...hccms_entry.doc

Richard Colley

President, Honda Car Club NSW

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Free Plug!

I can't make this one, but I've been to 3 of these HCC days at Wakefield, they are probably your best chance to get on the track.

If you've been thinking you might give a track day a go, this is the one to choose - you'll get personal instruction, and plenty of space on the track.

Go Team Trackday!

Not in the past, may be different this time with the afternoon timed sessions. Over to you Richard.

Either way a CAMS L2S license is under $50, SAU will be able to issue them on the spot once it is CAMS affiliated. You could also join Honda club on the day if you want the CAMS license

Originally posted by Duncan

Not in the past, may be different this time with the afternoon timed sessions.  Over to you Richard.

Either way a CAMS L2S license is under $50, SAU will be able to issue them on the spot once it is CAMS affiliated.  You could also join Honda club on the day if you want the CAMS license

I have 2 answers for this.

The polite one ... no you can use a CAM L2S or higher, or Wakefield license. Either are acceptable.

The not so polite one ... it's all described in the Supp Regs. All of this and more.

The spirit of the day is not a competitive, bet your house on it, kind of day. It is more one of fun and a chance to learn what your car can do in relative safety. Having said that, the 2nd half of the day will be timed and a little regimented like a formal supersprint.

We are running the day under a Wakefield permit, and that allows us certain flexibilities. e.g. we don't *require* a fire extinguisher, but you will be expected to have secondary bonnet ties.

I noticed that there's a Mopro round on the same weekend. Bummer. Not intentional Duncan, really :P

Dan a secondary bonnet tie is just a way of securing the bonnet in addition to the standard latch. The idea is to prevent the bonnet flying up if the latch fails.

A piece of sturdy cord is sufficient to do the trick. I use a thin tie down. Other suggestions:

* Swage some eyelets into a piece of thin steel cable with a snap shackle. (go to a ship chandlers)

* Bonnet pins (road legal???)

* Rope

Disclaimer: Obviously you don't want a tail flapping around and getting caught in your fan etc. Use common sense and go to a professional to do it for you if you can't figure out a safe way.

;)

Yeah I knew what one was Dino ;)... I just wasn't sure if you needed a CAMS approved one or not.

Thanks for the info... will go get peice of rope and attach to fan as suggested!!:bahaha:

  • 1 month later...

Just a reminder that the date for this event is fast approaching.

If you are interested in entering, please read the post at the top of this thread and send in your entry form or contact one of organisers above.

Places are filling up, so don't delay!

Regards,

Richard

Those word doc's were an interesting read.

For a "noobie wanna be trackdayer" like myself what else is required to actually get on the track. So far its:

* Second tie-down for bonnet

* Throat to ankles covered (im guessing some kind of race suit?)

* Non-nylon shoes

* Fire Ext not required but recommended (wheres the best place to mount these? I was thinking somewhere in the passenger side floor)

* CAMs license

What else would I need to prepare myself for a trackday ?

Any other noobie advice would be greatful, this HCC day sounds perfect although alittle too near for my liking.




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...