Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK

I have an R32 GTR with about 300awkw – and I think my clutch may be going

I currently have a twin plate – 'cause I here it rattle every time I have the clutch on the floor (no it's not the spigot beating), but I don't have much (READ :ZERO) experience with twin plate clutches – so this is my problem.

Lately the car / clutch we will shudder (ALLOT) when moving away from a stand still – this is worst when doing a hill start. I also seem to get what I will describe and a groaning sound when the clutch is at the balance point. The groan will happen pretty much all the time when moving away from stand still (can replicate it) – and the noise is linked to engine speed not road speed. It seems to be coming from the passenger side front of the car – and is almost like a v-belt slipping without the squeal.

So – my assumption is that the clutch is about to go – yes ?

Having foolishly leapt to that conclusion (and I'm looking for confirmation here guys) what should I use to replace it with.

I know I can recondition the current twin plate – any suggestions on how much that should cost. The clutch was in the car when I got it – so I do not know exactly what sort of clutch it is.

What if I wanted to swap over to a single plate clutch – I understand that these types of clutches can easily take the power – but will I need to replace my fly wheel too. Will that be a better option. My current twin plate is OK (not too heavy) – but it's less than ideal for day to day driving.

Lastly – how much, or how many hours should it take a reasonable mechanic to swap the clutch out ?

all comments / advice and general sledging welcomed at this stage

Edited by itbmils
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123463-gtr-clutch-problems/
Share on other sites

it shouldn't take more than about 4 hours. my mate is a mechanic and it took him 65 mins to get an r33 gts-t box out and get the clutch off. i imagine that a gtr would take a little longer. so i'd say 2 hours each way (4 hours total) would be a safe guess.

Give the guys at Direct Clutch a call. They can recondition any twin plate I've ever sent to them and a lot better price than replacing it. As for fitting it, I'm not sure if they do that as well, there will be plenty of guys on here that can help.

it shouldn't take more than about 4 hours. my mate is a mechanic and it took him 65 mins to get an r33 gts-t box out and get the clutch off. i imagine that a gtr would take a little longer. so i'd say 2 hours each way (4 hours total) would be a safe guess.

thanks for that

Also

I forgot to mention that I still don't seem to get any slip - I can easily break traction - even in 3rd @ speed (I just love telling people that >_<)

So - am I on the right track - or not ?

will a twin plate slip - or just die ?

Edited by itbmils

sometimes the pressure plate will start to die, then you will get slip then eventually nothing. if it's not slipping when loaded up in 4th and 5th then i wouldnt worry about replacing it just yet.

The shuddering indicates the clutch is fine its just being driven wrong. Dont ride it so much and let it out quicker otherwise it will do as you have said (and stuff the clutch fairly quickly).

Some twin plates are nice to drive, others (like the HKS one in my car) can be down right bastards. Just give it some more practice and let it out quicker rather than hold onto it at grabbing point which is whats happening.

Edited by Amaru
The shuddering indicates the clutch is fine and grabbing as it should, youre just riding it too much. Keep driving it like this and it will be stuffed fairly quickly.

Let the clutch out quicker... some twin plates are friendly, others (like my HKS one) are really bad and you have basically two options which is to stall it or wheel spin it (although I did find a point where it would start moving nicely and then just let the clutch fully go and it would be ok).

I know what you mean - mine is clearly binary (on or off) - problem is that I have had the car for almost 2 years now - and it's only started doing this in the past month or so. I don't think I've changed my driving style in that time >_<

I've been looking at some pics and visually speaking it looks like an OS Giken (spelling ??). By that I mean it's not purple or anything

I'm as concerned about the groan as I am about the shudder

any chance I could have some oil on the clutch plate or fly wheel ?

what else could make this noise ?

the exeddy clutches don't stay purple for that long.

have you given the car a bit of a raping just before it started playing up? you could've damaged/cooked the flywheel or plates. it might just need machining.

and the rattle just sounds like a throwout bearing being dry. i have a dry input bearing, and it makes the oposite noise - rattles when clutch is out, not in.

  • 3 weeks later...
ahahaha.

ive heard a story about GTRs in bathurst. they were havein problems launching it without bogging down. so they contacted nissan japan, and nissan replied. hold on 8000rpm and dump it. and stop driving like pussys

Hahhahaha Nice! ...

Can you imagine some of the Laughs Nissan Japan had at our learning Expense....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...