Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK

I have an R32 GTR with about 300awkw – and I think my clutch may be going

I currently have a twin plate – 'cause I here it rattle every time I have the clutch on the floor (no it's not the spigot beating), but I don't have much (READ :ZERO) experience with twin plate clutches – so this is my problem.

Lately the car / clutch we will shudder (ALLOT) when moving away from a stand still – this is worst when doing a hill start. I also seem to get what I will describe and a groaning sound when the clutch is at the balance point. The groan will happen pretty much all the time when moving away from stand still (can replicate it) – and the noise is linked to engine speed not road speed. It seems to be coming from the passenger side front of the car – and is almost like a v-belt slipping without the squeal.

So – my assumption is that the clutch is about to go – yes ?

Having foolishly leapt to that conclusion (and I'm looking for confirmation here guys) what should I use to replace it with.

I know I can recondition the current twin plate – any suggestions on how much that should cost. The clutch was in the car when I got it – so I do not know exactly what sort of clutch it is.

What if I wanted to swap over to a single plate clutch – I understand that these types of clutches can easily take the power – but will I need to replace my fly wheel too. Will that be a better option. My current twin plate is OK (not too heavy) – but it's less than ideal for day to day driving.

Lastly – how much, or how many hours should it take a reasonable mechanic to swap the clutch out ?

all comments / advice and general sledging welcomed at this stage

Edited by itbmils
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123463-gtr-clutch-problems/
Share on other sites

it shouldn't take more than about 4 hours. my mate is a mechanic and it took him 65 mins to get an r33 gts-t box out and get the clutch off. i imagine that a gtr would take a little longer. so i'd say 2 hours each way (4 hours total) would be a safe guess.

Give the guys at Direct Clutch a call. They can recondition any twin plate I've ever sent to them and a lot better price than replacing it. As for fitting it, I'm not sure if they do that as well, there will be plenty of guys on here that can help.

it shouldn't take more than about 4 hours. my mate is a mechanic and it took him 65 mins to get an r33 gts-t box out and get the clutch off. i imagine that a gtr would take a little longer. so i'd say 2 hours each way (4 hours total) would be a safe guess.

thanks for that

Also

I forgot to mention that I still don't seem to get any slip - I can easily break traction - even in 3rd @ speed (I just love telling people that >_<)

So - am I on the right track - or not ?

will a twin plate slip - or just die ?

Edited by itbmils

sometimes the pressure plate will start to die, then you will get slip then eventually nothing. if it's not slipping when loaded up in 4th and 5th then i wouldnt worry about replacing it just yet.

The shuddering indicates the clutch is fine its just being driven wrong. Dont ride it so much and let it out quicker otherwise it will do as you have said (and stuff the clutch fairly quickly).

Some twin plates are nice to drive, others (like the HKS one in my car) can be down right bastards. Just give it some more practice and let it out quicker rather than hold onto it at grabbing point which is whats happening.

Edited by Amaru
The shuddering indicates the clutch is fine and grabbing as it should, youre just riding it too much. Keep driving it like this and it will be stuffed fairly quickly.

Let the clutch out quicker... some twin plates are friendly, others (like my HKS one) are really bad and you have basically two options which is to stall it or wheel spin it (although I did find a point where it would start moving nicely and then just let the clutch fully go and it would be ok).

I know what you mean - mine is clearly binary (on or off) - problem is that I have had the car for almost 2 years now - and it's only started doing this in the past month or so. I don't think I've changed my driving style in that time >_<

I've been looking at some pics and visually speaking it looks like an OS Giken (spelling ??). By that I mean it's not purple or anything

I'm as concerned about the groan as I am about the shudder

any chance I could have some oil on the clutch plate or fly wheel ?

what else could make this noise ?

the exeddy clutches don't stay purple for that long.

have you given the car a bit of a raping just before it started playing up? you could've damaged/cooked the flywheel or plates. it might just need machining.

and the rattle just sounds like a throwout bearing being dry. i have a dry input bearing, and it makes the oposite noise - rattles when clutch is out, not in.

  • 3 weeks later...
ahahaha.

ive heard a story about GTRs in bathurst. they were havein problems launching it without bogging down. so they contacted nissan japan, and nissan replied. hold on 8000rpm and dump it. and stop driving like pussys

Hahhahaha Nice! ...

Can you imagine some of the Laughs Nissan Japan had at our learning Expense....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...