Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just had the 100,000km service which included having the trans fluid changed. Since then it seemed as if it was shifting slower and that sometimes the revs would flair between gears.

Then tonight under hard acceleration when changing from 2nd to 3dr it just let go, tacko hit 7,500 rpm and the power was not getting to the wheels.

Its fine changing between 1st and 2nd when I have the shift leaver held in 2nd and if I hold it to about 4,000rpm and then move it to drive with the throttle closed it changes into 3rd ok. The change into 4th seems ok as well.

The trans fluid smells like burnt rubber now.

I know MV in Adelaide are the experts on these but can anyone recommend someone good in Melbourne who can replace the bands and clutches with heavy duty items and fit a shift kit?

Edited by Burns
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123609-my-auto-is-stufed/
Share on other sites

Check and make sure there are no leaks of A/T fluid. Check oil level.

It willcost BIG BUCKS to fix. I just paid $4k on a Subaru. Do any of the Skyline boxes fit?

For about $12 get a bottle of Nulon for A/T. It may keep you going till you get it fixed.

oh the sliptronic auto... time for a manual conversion.

My auto did the same thing once, after a night of going crazy off the lights after i first got the car. Didnt want to play the game. i drove it home.... verge of tears... woke up the next morning and drove it to work - it was fine! tight as a drum. was like the damn thing just healed.

May have just been heat?

Is yours still playing up?

My auto has its good days and bad days.

Some days, it shifts soo quick i get a slight chirp on gear changes.

Some days, it shifts so slow on gear changes that I get have this thing where if i change from 2->d, the revs jump about 500rpm while keeping the same gear, then i hit the rev limiter while in D, then it changes.

On another note, its my 2->3 gear changes which are worst. Ive gotten about 1-1.5 full seconds of slip between changes....then the next morning its just been fine?

As above, check ATF

overheated fluid, incorrect fluid level (too much or too little) are 2 main things that will affect their performace. getting the fluid changed can sometimes cerate problems with the auto trans fluid filter being clogged, then the clean fluid loosens all these particles. take it to an auto trans specialist and get them to service it properly, not just replace fluid.

Nope it’s stuffed not just a bit of slippage or heat caused. The fluid level is spot on and I have a big trans cooler fitted. I took it for a little drive just before and it changes out of 2nd but not into 3rd. It just releases 2nd then free revs not changing into 3rd. When I slow down or change it back using the stick it goes back down into 2nd.

I have 1st, 2nd then neutral revv revv and go no where.

When I had it serviced they also fitted an adjustable cam gear, spit fire coils and gave it a tune so it’s putting out about as much as you can with a stock turbo.

I think the flex band or clutches between 2nd and 3rd have gone.

So am I the first to break a Stagea auto?

I will give Keas a call tomorrow and see what they think.

Edited by Burns
Nope it’s stuffed not just a bit of slippage or heat caused. The fluid level is spot on and I have a big trans cooler fitted. I took it for a little drive just before and it changes out of 2nd but not into 3rd. It just releases 2nd then free revs not changing into 3rd. When I slow down or change it back using the stick it goes back down into 2nd.

I have 1st, 2nd then neutral revv revv and go no where.

When I had it serviced they also fitted an adjustable cam gear, spit fire coils and gave it a tune so it’s putting out about as much as you can with a stock turbo.

I think the flex band or clutches between 2nd and 3rd have gone.

So am I the first to break a Stagea auto?

I will give Keas a call tomorrow and see what they think.

sounds like the bands need tightening, used to be the same on my old vl turbo auto, not fun when it slips like shit to the revlimiter everytime u put ya foot down or when it kicks down :P

I find that my auto changes are a bit sloppy when it is cold. Once I've been driving for a while, and the trans warms up, it seems to tighten up and changes become a bit sharper.

Sometimes it gets confused when I accelerate quickly out of an intersection and throttle off before it changes, it seems to hang for a bit and then change.

Auto's are all black magic, smoke and mirrors to me. At least I can visualise what is going on in a manual box when I change gear.

After I fitted my FMIC I found, what seemed to be, a loss of power which I thought was either lag from the new piping (yeah right) or that my boost control valve was playing up. After some inspection I found the the boost level was actually not changing when this was happening. This usually occured under semi-light throttle with about 0.2 bar boost.

Then I started noticing that it was taking a looooooooooonnnnnngggg time to change gears when I had the foot up it. On sunday I attempted to pull away from an intersection & found that I had barely any drive, I backed off the throttle & reapplied it to find it was there again. Today after giving it a squirt it SLAMMED into the next gear after holding between the gears. Not a whole lot of fun really. Still, it does give me more reason to do the manual conversion now :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...