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Car Got Stuck On 9000 Revs Without Me Doing It

RB20_ZED

By RB20_ZED,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
what? the r33's? if you say so..........

on my r32 the doesnt lock till the key comes out.

steve

My R32 locks with the key in it, but it does have to be in the off position.

When you first shove the key in it how do you unlock the steering wheel?

I am required to turn it to the acc. positon with a little wiggle of the steering wheel. I would think if locked once they key is slid out then it must also unlock by simply sliding the key in.

MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted

Thanks guys, nah, i just thought someone went happy modding on me.

I suggested that cutting the fuel pump is not a good idea. especially at 9k rpm.

Motors have been killed by a fuel pump failing at wot. Cutting the ignition would be a better idea.

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

Yeah that was exactly the point I was raising. I don't think cutting the fuel is the best way to stop an engine running at 9000rpm. Don't be a custo, just turn it a little way, its not hard to feel the first click in the off position with no steering lock. Interesting topic though, seems a few people have had similar issues.

One time a padock basher brumby I had, got throttle stuck open, but then went one better, kept going once key was off as it was running unleaded fuel (when it shouldnt have been) and the little thrash had it pre-igniting. so ignition off, then it kept going, so i slammed it into 4th and pulled the hand brake on, it tried for a little then died....

PHATR32 Grand Master

PHATR32

Posted
Posted

dude you arnt going crazy, theres a second post thats exactly the same in a differant section!!

i went through it and though the mods cut sik at it, but i guess they havnt spotted the second one.

steve

Thanks guys, nah, i just thought someone went happy modding on me.

I suggested that cutting the fuel pump is not a good idea. especially at 9k rpm.

Motors have been killed by a fuel pump failing at wot. Cutting the ignition would be a better idea.

RB20_ZED Collaborator

RB20_ZED

Posted
  • Author
Posted

To update:

The problem remains and this time i paid more attention and it doesnt feel like the throttle gets "stuck", but it feels like it actually accelerates and opens up. I mean it feels like the throttle just opens up itself. Both times it happened I was going pretty slow and accelerating in second gear at very pretty low revs.

I spent yesterday making sure there were no cables, wires etc near the throttle cable and accel pedal.

The whole cable and throttle spring/mechanism etc feels excellent - no sticking or anything.

Also had a look inside the throttle body at the butterfly valve thing and it seems to move fine and not be loose or sticky. Lubed up the cable so it couldnt stick and did everything I could to basically make sure the cable or throttle mechanism had nothing around it to interfer.

Then, after driving the car around for over 2 hours, it happened again. Was in second gear and was starting off slowly... revving maybe 2000rpm in second gear and accelerating slowly - then it felt like it was accelerating harder and i took my foot off the pedal and it kept accelerating, took it out of gear - revs shot up - i killed the ignition, stopped, looked under the hood at the cable and it was free and restarted and the car was fine.

I have the older rb20det NICS type and thing think it has something to do with the idle mechanism... i have no idea how it works but i figure something has to give the car throttle when your not touching the pedal so that it idles... and maybe this opens up or gets loose or something.

In this post -> post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=124145

someone talks about a faulty aac valve (?) and a valve UNDERNEATH the inlet plenum/manifold that adds air according to coolant temp based on maps in your ecu.. (?)

I'm really just taking a stab in the dark - please help!! I'm really stuck with what to do.

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

or just takle it somewhere to get it checked :)

perhaps the return spring(s) are broken. both on the pedal and on the throttle body.

also the tps has a spring too. it would be hard to put it on backwards though

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

The AAC at maximum open will only hold your revs at around 1600....not 9000. If the throttle is shut...the car cannot rev. Your problem must be throttle related. it is physically impossible to increase the revs that much but not allow any more air to enter, the engine would choke and die.

Does the accelerator pedal return to it's normal position when this happens?

Do you have any kind of cruise control fitted to your vehicle?

RB20_ZED Collaborator

RB20_ZED

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no cruise control

and i think the pedal felt like it was stationary... To be honest it all happened so fast that i could be wrong - the pedal might have moved... i AM sure that it wasnt stuck. And i AM sure that when I stopped the car (like 1 second after it happened) the pedal and the throttle mechanism were both in the usual position and not caught/stuck or in an unusual position.

what about the cold idle valve?

The AAC at maximum open will only hold your revs at around 1600....not 9000. If the throttle is shut...the car cannot rev. Your problem must be throttle related. it is physically impossible to increase the revs that much but not allow any more air to enter, the engine would choke and die.

Does the accelerator pedal return to it's normal position when this happens?

Do you have any kind of cruise control fitted to your vehicle?

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