Jump to content
SAU Community

R32, 33, 34, S13, S14, S15, Wrx Leather/vinyl Seat Covers..


Recommended Posts

Is there any special reference I should put on my payment transfer?? like user name or SAU group buy?

Cheers :)

They have asked for:

Username, Real Name & Car Type

  • Replies 215
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

can some one confirm what these are made from? I'm confused that these are being reffered to as Leather seat covers but then also reffered to as Leather/Vinyl. Which one is it? or is it just that they feel like leather?

they are vinyl..no doubt about that...but they look and feel just like leather...i went to two other trimmers here in melb and i looked at fair few different products, and these are the ones that feel like leather...

so most trimmers call it leather, but i wanted to say it as it was which is vinyl that feels and looks like leather...

if you wanted real leather u would be lucky to get one seat with these prices..

are these seat covers Leather or vinyl???? if there Leather how much for both back and front covers and door trims and gear boot???

cheers

bill

are these seat covers Leather or vinyl???? if there Leather how much for both back and front covers and door trims and gear boot???

cheers

bill

Try and read at least the previous post before asking such a question...
yes i saw it in the post above mine, but why are u Advertising it as leather in ur signature, when its not?

Thats what the company advertise it as on Ebay I belive.

Thats why we want everyone to read the confirm thread carefully as most needed information is there.

yes i saw it in the post above mine, but why are u Advertising it as leather in ur signature, when its not?

maybe read the post again..

colours and stitching design is according to the stock seat style - its supposed to look like the stock seat, but with the leather/vinal material instead of cloth

the pictured seat is for a different car...

very interested,

can you get them in this style

post-24599-1152535082.jpg

Surely you'd feel like taking a shit every time you got in your car....

looks just like a toilet seat :)

Hey Jetdat, i tried PM'ing you but didnt get a reply, just wanted to know if i'm still able to get in on this group buy. R32 Gtst interior front and rear (2 door model)

in ivory (not the white, not the tan, the one inbetween)

also wanted the wrinkle

how much is that all up?

cheers

Edited by m0t4v4ll1
Hey Jetdat, i tried PM'ing you but didnt get a reply, just wanted to know if i'm still able to get in on this group buy. R32 Gtst interior front and rear (2 door model)

in ivory (not the white, not the tan, the one inbetween)

also wanted the wrinkle

how much is that all up?

cheers

Just post your order int he comfirmed order thread!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...