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yeah anyway,

So I can hide my Turbo smart mechanical boost controller under the dash somewhere. The length of the hose to the actuator should not matter. RIGHT

Next Quest I need a cover for thePOD filter....Any ideas?

  26GTS said:
With an ebc you can adjust when the wastegate starts to open, this brings boost on faster than a bleeder. If you set this to close to your desired boost level if will spike. You must find a good compromise which is the difference between a well setup ebc and one that isnt.

The greddy profec b spec 2 can also limit boost spiking. eg i have it set to 1.18 bar as i dont want it to go over 1.17. This feature is really handy when setting it up.

Maybe give one a try someday, you could always sell it if you dont like it.

If you have a pfc i think it would be silly not to run their pfc ebc kit.

Also i wasnt saying you were having boost delivery issues.

Mick

I have a "bleeder" as well, the $22 one from these forums. It shows the actuator NO pressure until you reach your set boost level. Ie: the wastegate stays SHUT until you reach your desired boost level. It builds boost ASAP. How can an EBC do any better than that?

Perhaps you should take your own advice and give a manual boost controller a try someday, And if you like it, you could spend that $500 you saved on something else :D

  Lazy-Bastard said:
I have a "bleeder" as well, the $22 one from these forums. It shows the actuator NO pressure until you reach your set boost level. Ie: the wastegate stays SHUT until you reach your desired boost level. It builds boost ASAP. How can an EBC do any better than that?

Perhaps you should take your own advice and give a manual boost controller a try someday, And if you like it, you could spend that $500 you saved on something else :D

Yeah i had one of those was going to give it a try but couldnt see its cheap construction and coarse adjustment being good enough for me. I gave it to a mate :)

You dont want to show the actuator no pressure untill the momment it opens, this will cause the boost to spike. With an ebc u can adjust this exactly in .01 bar increments until you have a superior result to what yours mbc can deliver.

Basically your 2bit bc is made of 5$ worth of materials it can only come close to the performance and adjustablity of a good ebc.

Good luck on your budget route, but near enough is not good enough for me!

that's strange? I've been pulled over before in my mate's 200sx with a Turbosmart dual stage boost controller (it's crap never get it) sitting next to his factory airbox, you could see it a mile away and the cops didn't say anything, didn't even defect us or anything

Hmmm, my two cents here - I've had both on my old R32, a 1/8" Festo bleed valve switched by a solenoid to run 16psi on a std turbo (steel-wheeled) and then later a Blitz Dual SBC Spec S...and I've got to say that the Blitz wasn't all that great, it would never actually hold the boost setting I entered, even under 1bar....I tweaked it endlessly and it just couldn't do it - regardless of what gain setting I had to accompany the boost ratio...whereas the bleed valve was actually pretty reliable!

I'm sure more expensive EBC's are better...but personally I'm going to try the Jaycar EBC for my R33 - cheap and invisble, especially if you have an RB25DET with std boost solenoid.

See what I did there? Answered the question (in a way) and also managed to squeeze in my opinion about cheap Jap EBC! Sweeeeeet.

ezi09s that a load of crap. the longer the length of the hose from wastegate to bleeder etc the worse the setup will be. i have used a bleeder before and have tried all options. they seem to be good up to around 10 or 12 psi then just become useless due to the boost spikes. bought an ebc, but they are a pain in the arse setting up. still when done properly they work a treat.

  R31Nismoid said:
i dont reckon an EBC can bring boost on earlier compared to a bleeder.

I certainly didnt have boost delivery issues

Hi,

You will get the fastest boost rise with no air going to the WG actuator.

For a bleeder to 'work' there has to be something for it to bleed off - there will be "some"

(less, but not none) air going to the WG actuator. Thus, a bleed-based system cannot ever

provide maximum boost rising rate (you can't bleed off 100% of the air). This applies for electronic

bleed (solenoid) or manual bleed (valve) setups.

An inline EBC _can_ provide the 'no' air requirement in the way that a bleed

arrangement cannot, so yes, it can bring on boost earlier than a bleeder.

Whether this is noticeable (or even desirable) in practical terms is another matter

and depends on a whole bunch of stuff including personal preference :)

Regards,

Saliya

  ezi09s said:
i

a 2m or so added length to the hose wont affect the performance etc..

For a bleeder I definately would not be doing this, with a smaller turbo (stock) the time it takes to pressure the longer tubing can be enough for it to spike to 15psi before lowering the boost to say your set level of 10psi.

I found this out with my old redtop rb20det. Would spike to 16psi and then drop back to 11ish. As soon as I removed the excessive tubing it went to 11 and stayed there.

  RB SANDY said:
What type of bleeder were you running

turbosmart dual stage one. It still spiked to 12 when I shortened the hose and when I removed it completely it was fine.

The cheap INLINE ones you can get on ebay for $20 do the trick much much better. With the inline ones theres no extra tubing to pressurize so theres no delay with it activating. Really only an issue with small turbos the build boost extremely fast.

Edited by Rolls

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