Jump to content
SAU Community

Best Way Of Purchasing A R32 In Good Cond.


Recommended Posts

Guest intouch

hey SAU,

Im interested in buying a 1990-1993 skyline r32 gtst... As we all know, they are fair old (about 16 years old :whistling:) and basically its hard to find one in good condition which will last me for the next three years. So here lies my question, should i look at ones being imported and complied? or go on sites such as carsales and the classified sections of sites such as SAU. Also if anyone knows any trusted garages / importers who import mint r32's plz post : >

Thanks guys!!!

Edited by intouch

hey.. I just went on carsales for mine.. it took a long time to find something in excellent condition, but if you're patient something will come up. I was thinking of importing one, but thought for the type of car it is, I would rather look it over in person and drive it myself before buying. If you're prepared to pay a little extra for one that someone is selling here already then do that for the sake of saving $$$ in the long run.

Best Way Of Purchasing A R32 In Good Cond.

go out and buy one of these

ext5.jpg

as soon as you get it you will need to bolt a few things on such a positron flux capacitor and ion matter distrubitor... repco stock them i believe... part number is BTF20193-A and BTF08073-PP

Your end product should look like this...

car018-c.jpg

Now if you make it this far your doing well... once you have created this vehicle to the exact specifications you should be able to travel back in time to 1990-1993 and find one in better then good condition.

:) sorry... bored at work.

go out and buy one of these

ext5.jpg

as soon as you get it you will need to bolt a few things on such a positron flux capacitor and ion matter distrubitor... repco stock them i believe... part number is BTF20193-A and BTF08073-PP

Your end product should look like this...

car018-c.jpg

Now if you make it this far your doing well... once you have created this vehicle to the exact specifications you should be able to travel back in time to 1990-1993 and find one in better then good condition.

:laugh: sorry... bored at work.

BEST POST EVER :nyaanyaa: :PBJ:

hey SAU,

Im interested in buying a 1990-1993 skyline r32 gtst... As we all know, they are fair old (about 16 years old :O) and basically its hard to find one in good condition which will last me for the next three years. So here lies my question, should i look at ones being imported and complied? or go on sites such as carsales and the classified sections of sites such as SAU. Also if anyone knows any trusted garages / importers who import mint r32's plz post : >

Thanks guys!!!

:O C'mon man.

GODZILLLLAAA...Jks :/ Don't import one! Comliancing is a bitch.

You sure you want a 32? Or can I push you toward a 33? Huh HUH!

;) Carsales/Trading post...Hop to it.

hey, i bought my 32 not too long ago it was in great condition.

i wouldnt recommend importing one because i just personally dont like tha fact of not being able to see the car drive it check it out myself etc... however there are professionals who look em ova so thats a plus.

if your worried about importing one and it stuffn up well when i got my 32 about a few days after the turbo seals went and i think the piston #6 f**ked up, probably my fault for dragging but who knows if that was the cause.

ive learnt my lesson from it :)

morale of the story is if its gonna die its gonna die weather it be local or import, what i am going to do with my next car is compression test the sucker.....just make sure you have say 3000 left over in case something happens.

as for a 32 or maybe a 33 i prefer the 32's looks sexier , tougher more stylish but i would kill for the 33 interior heeh

let us know how you go and what you get..

stay safe

Guest intouch

hehe yeah s2000 is a chick..

umm

thanks for hte replies guys! well ive found an r32 which im really interested in and will probably endup buying! it is not imported, its local private sale. I have never bought a car before, so im abit vague on the whole process.. i want to get RACV to do a full test on it, and make sure everything is in good nick etc. should i get the seller to pay for this? or should i? also does anyone know if RACV perform compression tests?

thanks guys!!

i want to get RACV to do a full test on it, and make sure everything is in good nick etc. should i get the seller to pay for this? or should i? also does anyone know if RACV perform compression tests?

RACV should do a compression check. Generally the buyer pays for it but worth the money if you're not sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...