Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas, i thought maybe some of u might be able to help me out here...

u can modify a car as much as you want but in all honesty, its your ability to drive that counts more than anything

my problem is that i cant seem to perfect my launch..so i was wodnering if anyone could give me some tips...usually i sit at about 2500 to 3000 and jus ease through the clutch, but i still get taken off the mark...eventually through 3-4 i can them most of the time but if i could jus master the start....

any advice?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124595-the-perfect-launch/
Share on other sites

i actually like a nice salad mayo sandwich, usually goes down and hits the spot nicely :whistling:

oh hang on, launch, hmmmm

anton sounds like you have the idea ... i would be more insisting on 2000 - 2500 rpm easing clutch out and gaining throttle as its coming out

a little wheel spin, or chirping of the tyres is fine ... just no major wheelspin.

its not as easy to launch as everyone thinks

unless u got an auto ... meh

Your avatar shows a R33, your sig shows "RB20DET" - so this might be of no use but...

My R33 (pretty much stock) launches best at about 4200rpms. Any lower, it bogs. Any higher, wheelspin to hell. But 4200 - I go off like a gunshot. It's very tricky (especially with a turbo), but once you find the sweet spot you're laughing!

Much easier if you get an aftermarket computer with launch control - you can preset the revs your engine holds at whilst you hold the throttle flat down, as soon as it detects any speed (cos you took your foot off the clutch) it goes bach to full...

I Have an R32GTSt. Mods are FMIC 3 inch turbo back eghaust, 12PSI Boost. I also have a semi button ceramic clutch. Launching was a hard task to perfect. Usually 3500 - 4000rpm for a "moderate" launch or a redline launch if out at the track and just ride it out.

For average day to day driving i usually take off at 1500rpm.

Hope this helps!

a little bit of wheelspin is better than bogging it down. i have a heavy single plate clutch and only have stock tyres (205's...i know they are crap, but my old ones weren't legal and i only paid $200 for 4 new tyres on stock r33 rims). putting 270 odd hp to the ground through them is rather tricky. i rev it up to about 3000-3500, load it up on the handbrake. then when you want to go you drop the handbrake, gas it as you let the cluth up quickly. use the accelerator to determine how much wheelspin you get.

Is the car in your avatar a GTR - or has it just been badged a GTR like some (i won't call anyone names) people do?

If so, up the anti and drop it from 3500 - 5500, that's the beauty about GTR's they stick, if not, 3000 - 4000 works for me.

Hmm Wheelspin... What if ur car is running on High Boost all the time??

how do u lessen as much wheelspin as possible

Sometimes i can smell clutch n it's burning or whatever

I rev it to about 1K or just a bit over.. Then Bang drop on the Gas

Still spins. Got 245'z Tyres, FMIC, 3 Inch Cat Back, Hks Filter n 9-10Psi of Boost. It doesn't get going till after 2nd... then goes all out once i reached 3rd..

It's a bit of a Problem when draggin other Fast Non-Turbo Cars.. aka V8's, SS, XR8 etc...

Edited by Black_CSR
  • 3 months later...

I rev till about 3000. Lift the bandbrake, let clutch out till the friction point and then release then hanbrake. I may not come onto boost as quick as the guys who drop and feather the clutch at 4000 but it's consistent.

Tyres and suspension play a monumental part aswell

Jeezus, this thread is filled with so much uncertainty that it's just not funny.

Few points for you to consider (for the drag strip of course):

A little wheel spin is better than bogging down.

Generally, this requires a little more revs, and easing the clutch out.

It is car dependant - therefore, you'll have to practice.

What I did before, was I would start at 3k rpm. I tried to pop it, it boged.

Popping it at 4 did a mini burnout, then bogged.

Therefore, for general semi quick launches, without absolutely killing the clutch, I just ease it out at about 4-4.5.

But hey, that's just how my car goes with my tyre, suspension, clutch, power delivery etc. Therefore, practice on your own car.

But the general principle is avoid bog, avoid burnout, a bit of wheels spin is ok e.g. 10% wheelspin.

hmm, when i had the stock 32 turbo, dropping it from about 2500 was the perfect launch. Now with the r34 turbo its impossible to take off. Wouldnt bother taking it to a strip, too hard to launch, id be looking at 15's.

I've tried riding it down from 4k, too much clutch burn, 3k, it bogs even if i let it slow or it wheel spins to the top and dropping it from everywhere means either bog or burn. I was driving my mates civic (91, twin carb, 1.6L), he was in my skyline, i was in front of him on take off for at least 50 meters, till spoolage and traction and lag fixed itself and the line overtook

gey assd rb20

Ok ill post a proper response about my experiences. In my old R33, it had turbo back exhaust, 10psi, Power FC, FMIC (191rwkw), rock hard tein susp, 5 puck brass button clutch, 255 wide K104 tyres, revs at 4200, drop clutch (foot flat all the way) & wheel spin half way through 1st, ran 13.5 @ 106 with 1.8 60’ (with granny shifted 3rd)

As adrian said, it's car dependant, so practice makes perfect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...