Jump to content
SAU Community

Motul Oil – What Weight?

Nismo_Boy

By Nismo_Boy,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sheriff Wan Proficient

Sheriff Wan

Posted
Posted

Gents im running MOTUL 300V Chrono 10w40 and can say its awesome. Its a pain having to buy 2 bottles to start with as you can only get it in 2 or 4 litres but its well worth it!

Im not sure about 15w... but the 10w it works for me

BTW I have an RB20DET with around 180rwkw

subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted

With the RB25 Im using castrol syntec 10w60, can any tell me what advantage i would have using Motul over castrol isnt it personal preference, It runs 400rwhp.

should i stick with what i use.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I'd tend to stick with what you are using...

The bloke who built up my engine said to choose an oil and stick to it, not to flick between one or another.

Why? I'm not sure.. maybe detergent levels? Maybe a thing in the past? One oil may not clean so well, throw an oil in that does and something may dislodge causing damage.. Really I don't know, its only speculation.

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

People shouldn't get so hung up over the "W" rating of the oil. Its the latter number that matters ie the viscosity of the oil when the oil is at operating temperatures. The W refers to sub zero temp fluidity and thats it. So for all intents and purposes there is no real world differences between a 15W40 and a 10W40.

ALso there is no problem switching oils. Oils change their formulations over time anyway due to changing industry standards such as API and OEMs, so say Castrol GTX Magnatec 3 years ago would be quite different to whats on the shelf today.

Btw for $50 a bottle, Mobil Delvac 1 is unbeatable.

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

^^. Thats Autobarn in the USA.

Its not for just for diesel engines. It is also rated for petrol engine use too (ie mixed fleet, as stated in the TDS and the bottle itself) and just so happens to work exceptionally well as proved through many oil analysis.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

well one reason to pick the motul 300V 15W50 over the 300V 10W40 is that the 15W50 has a high vis only 3.33 times the low. where as the 10W40 is 4 times. the higher bigger the difference between the two viscosities the more VIIs it contains (BAD). a 10W60 is a very wide spread so requires a lot of aditives to the base stock. not good. FTR i use the 10W40 motul chrono 300V. and i think it's very good but about to do my fist UOA on it so we shall see.

Sol32 Community Regular

Sol32

Posted
Posted

Hi guys

Picked up 2 bottles of 300V 10-40 on the weekend, but now after some reading I'm wondering if I shouldnt swap them for the 15-50? Currently theres Motul Turbolight 4100 10-40 in there. It's for a daily driven 90' GTR with basic mods.

And quickly, when doing an oil change, how much should I put in? From what I've gathered, around 5L. My engine doesnt not burn any oil as far as I can see. Ive searched extensively and theres just too many different answers out there!

Thanks in advance,

Andrew

Sol32 Community Regular

Sol32

Posted
Posted
Hi guys

Picked up 2 bottles of 300V 10-40 on the weekend, but now after some reading I'm wondering if I shouldnt swap them for the 15-50? Currently theres Motul Turbolight 4100 10-40 in there. It's for a daily driven 90' GTR with basic mods.

And quickly, when doing an oil change, how much should I put in? From what I've gathered, around 5L. My engine doesnt not burn any oil as far as I can see. Ive searched extensively and theres just too many different answers out there!

Thanks in advance,

Andrew

Probably should have explained that by "basic mods" i meant 250kw atw (Power fc, cam gears etc etc)

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Beer Baron, there is nothing wrong with having a wide VII spread with high quality basestocks such as POA and Esters. Its when you use lots of VIIs in mineral oils which don't have good VII properties to begin with. Motul claim they don't use any VIIs in their 300V line. Pretty interesting.

Busky2k Veteran

Busky2k

Posted
Posted

Hi Sol32. Unless your car is used on the track, stick with the 10W40! In terms of how much to put in, pour in 4L and then top up in 100ml amounts until its correct on the dipstick. Start the car, let the oil filter fill up and then reassess again.

  • 2 weeks later...
Russco Proficient

Russco

Posted
Posted
Anyone running the 300v 15w50 in oz? thoughts etc?

pete

I changed from Castol 10-60 to Motul 300v 15-50 - I find the Motul a better product particularly in cold starts (much less noise in the valvetrain), the Castrol seemed to break down quicker & require changing more frequently but I do a lot of cold starts, stop-start driving- there was not 1 HP difference between the 2 on the dyno & both held up well on trackdays. Motul is overpriced to the point that I will be probably going back to the Castrol and doing oil changes more frequently.

khunjeng Veteran

khunjeng

Posted
Posted

Cos I reckon its the best I buy Redline products. I'm tyring the 10W40 in the R33 however I do use their 10W30 in my FTO and it works fine.

300V would be my next choice. However I'm doing 10k OCIs with the redline stuff and the engine is celan as...should take a photo next time.

The cold start cST rating is an important spec. You will see the 30s have very low visc ratings at cold start - good for engine protection however at opertaing temp the difference is minimal between the 30-50.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • MBS206
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...