Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas,

i'm buying a modified r32 gtst soon and was wondering the requirements needed to pass for a RWC?

Engine Mods were: Custom Garrett 500HP Ball Bearing Turbo, Braided Oil and Water lines, Bosch 044 Fuel Pump, Bosch 555cc injectors, Custom Fuel Rail, Malpassi Rising Rate fuel regulator, HKS Air Pod, HKS Heavy duty actuator Valve, 3inch turbo back exhaust with Dual chamber dump pipe, Microtech LT10s computer

Apexi AVCR, stainless steel intake pipe, Hybrid Front mount intercooler, Catch Can, Exedy Heavy duty organic clutch, Lightened flywheel

Other mods: Phillips XENON headlight kit, Sony XPLOD Head Unit, Blitz Turbo Timer, Blitz Boost Gauge, Razo Gear Knob, Nismo Short Shift Kit, Momo Steering Wheel, new tyres

What modifications do they usually check for a RWC, how long does it take for the checkup and also the price to get a RWC done?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125264-requirements-for-a-rwc/
Share on other sites

From what I can see, illegal modifications are:

Pod filter + FMIC combo, aftermarket ECU, boost controller, catch can if it vents to atmosphere.

I'll assume the Philips headlight kit complies to ADR standards so that will pass.

The boost guage might be a problem if it's mounted on the A-pillar, so will the steering wheel if any part of it is highly reflective (ie. chrome) and distracts your vision (ie. glare). Also make sure because you don't have the stock gear stick knob, that you have a sticker to indicate your gear patterns.

Apart from checking the basics such as lights, wipers, etc, they will usually check your suspension and steering bushes under the car as well, so make sure steering boots or whatever aren't cracked and so forth. They will also check for exhaust leaks and if your engine and gearbox mounts are still in good condition.

Someone else might have more information for you.

You'd be better off talking to the place thats going to do your WRC

there is such a large inconsistency with the application of the regulations that one place will pass things another wont, but pick on stuff that really shouldnt be

hey fellas,

i'm buying a modified r32 gtst soon and was wondering the requirements needed to pass for a RWC?

Strictly speaking whoever you are buying it from is supposed to supply the RWC. This can be a negotiation point, but at least make the purchase conditional on an initial RWC inspection.

i had to do organise the rwc on my r33 when i got it. it failed the first time for:

wiper blades

split muffler

rear seat not secure

compliance plate covered

wing not secure

and i have on it

atmo bov

dual stage boost controller

2 guages on a pillar

pod and fmic combo

depend where you take it really...

thanks for that guys, appreciate it.

Hey there, >_<

A roadworthy is a test of the cars ability to be driven safely...

So...brakes,tyres,wipers,lights,seat belts ,windsreen,horn,shocks,excessive oils leaks,holes in the muffler or smoke out of the rear end are basically what they look at....its not an epa test

I am a mech, and work at a roady specialist.

Most things are checked to be secured and present; ie emissions gear to appear to be present; cat, stovepipe, charcoal canister etc.

All loose items; sub, stereo etc, are to be secure, as it the battery.

They largely look at leaks, bushes, ball joints, unis, tyres, brake pads, disc rotor thickness etc.

thanks for the replies everyone. I was also wondering an estimate of how much a RWC will set me back, considering the mods?

Also, does anyone know of a mechanic that can take a look at the car on wednesday, around the Lilydale area?

cheers, miguel

Edited by Race Bred
thanks for the replies everyone. I was also wondering an estimate of how much a RWC will set me back, considering the mods?

Also, does anyone know of a mechanic that can take a look at the car on wednesday, around the Lilydale area?

cheers, miguel

The costs all depend on all the above items mentioned and there costs...ie tyres brakes windscreen etc might all need to be replaced

After the roadworthy you get a paper listing your problems and off you go to fix them

The cost of the roadworthy if i recall is about $70 but the cost to you depend on all the faults.

I believe you are given two weeks to fix them and return back to the place to re-inspect and stamp

the paper work.

Once the dates expire you need to pay the $70 again.

You might be pleasently surprised or dumbfounded on the faults and the money you need to spend to get it roadworthy.

Good Luck

Edited by 700HP-GTR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...