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Got no one to tell atm so i am going to post . Just droppeed my gear box by myself and it was probably the hardest thing i have ever had to do on a car. never done one so i am taking an opportunity to boast before i find out that i have fu#$ed something up in the process lol. wooooooooooohooooooooo :whistling::laugh: :laughing-smiley-014:

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i reckon i dropped my gtr box at about the same time you did yesterday! :D

Got no one to tell atm so i am going to post . Just droppeed my gear box by myself and it was probably the hardest thing i have ever had to do on a car. never done one so i am taking an opportunity to boast before i find out that i have fu#$ed something up in the process lol. wooooooooooohooooooooo :(:) :laughing-smiley-014:

i did it myself. the only 2 hard bits are the top centre bolt right, and the tail shaft bolts. the top bolt is just in a prick of a spot for my big hands (thats what you get for being 6' 3" and 80kg and trying to work on a japanese car), and the tail shaft bolts are just damn tight. and after all those hours work it only cost my 90 cents to fix the problem. i had a broken clutch fork pivot bolt.

took me about 3 hours to get out (a bit of that was me just lying under the car swearing at the fact the spanner kept falling off the bolt), and about 2 hours to get back on.

i thought i went ok, then a few weeks later i got a phone call from my mate who's a mechanic who had to fix a broken pivot bolt in a r33 as well, but it had broken the head off where as mine had broken off at the bell housing. when i went to have a look he said it took him 65 mins to get the box out and clutch off. but my excuse was that he is a qualified mechanic with a full range of tools, and a hoist. i just had the car jacket up on stands.

if i ever have to do it again i'm taking it to my father-in-law's work, cause they have a hoist. i was going to use it last time but i didn't know for sure what the problem was and how long it was going to take to fix and i could'nt leave it up on the hoist with no gearbox during the week.

what annoyed me was that i put my 3.5" exhaust on when we put the gearbox back in (had stock on there beforehand) and i didn't get to do a before/after drive. i certainly wasn't going to put the stock on and go for a drive then come back and put the 3.5" on as it was getting late cause i was doing it on a weeknight after work.

Edited by mad082

mate of mine tauight me handy little trick

rb20/rb30 gearboxes - on the bottom, there is a little rectangular part of the cast metal sticking out

rest this part on a trolley jack - it works out to be the perfect balancing point of the gearbox

get the gearbox resting on the trolley jack on that point, and just guide one end of the box with your hand, and it makes things bloody easy

just pump pump up the jack and guide it into the bellhousing

sounds silly, but cut my last2 gearbox changes by half the time!

I had the same problem with my top bolt, kept dropping the spanner down the back of the engine. In the end I tied it to my wrist so it didn't happen again.

That was the hardest part. I was worried about the weight, but in the end I just put a few large bags stuffed full of bubble wrap under the box (I wasn't going to catch it on my own) then just lowered the jack. Worked like a charm.

I finally found a good way of doing the tail bolts. Get two spanners for bolt and nut and lock one spanner in where the hydrolic pipe goes in, the jutting out part (not the pipe or something easily bent or damaged). Jam the shaft pinning a crow bar through it and to the floor (long one required). Then snap the bolt, if having trouble extend your tool any way you can and get some leaverage.

:P Pretty hungover today so hopefully I've explained it ok. If anybody has any good ideas on getting that top bolt back in when the box is back on, I would love some ideas. I know it's going to be a tough one. :P

Anybody know where to get OS giken twin/tripple clutches reconditioned in Sydney or anywhere, I know HKS can send them off but I'd rather cut out the middle man.

i did it myself. the only 2 hard bits are the top centre bolt right, and the tail shaft bolts. the top bolt is just in a prick of a spot for my big hands (thats what you get for being 6' 3" and 80kg and trying to work on a japanese car), and the tail shaft bolts are just damn tight. and after all those hours work it only cost my 90 cents to fix the problem. i had a broken clutch fork pivot bolt.

took me about 3 hours to get out (a bit of that was me just lying under the car swearing at the fact the spanner kept falling off the bolt), and about 2 hours to get back on.

i thought i went ok, then a few weeks later i got a phone call from my mate who's a mechanic who had to fix a broken pivot bolt in a r33 as well, but it had broken the head off where as mine had broken off at the bell housing. when i went to have a look he said it took him 65 mins to get the box out and clutch off. but my excuse was that he is a qualified mechanic with a full range of tools, and a hoist. i just had the car jacket up on stands.

if i ever have to do it again i'm taking it to my father-in-law's work, cause they have a hoist. i was going to use it last time but i didn't know for sure what the problem was and how long it was going to take to fix and i could'nt leave it up on the hoist with no gearbox during the week.

what annoyed me was that i put my 3.5" exhaust on when we put the gearbox back in (had stock on there beforehand) and i didn't get to do a before/after drive. i certainly wasn't going to put the stock on and go for a drive then come back and put the 3.5" on as it was getting late cause i was doing it on a weeknight after work.

Fricken allen key bolts. Stripped two allan keys trying to get the Os giken clutch off lol. Soaked the bolts in WD40 and that didn't work. Before i take the angle grinder to them anybody got any ideas?

are you using allen head sockets on a big breaker bar and holding it square to the bolt? should be OK.

with the top bolt, the easiest way we have found is 4x1' wobbly extensions (along the top of the box), drop the gearbox cross member and loosen the engine subframe mounts about an inch. off she comes

I've never done it on a hoist, must be heaps easier

My main concern is the weight of the box. It's just so awkard.

r33 box = around 70kg. Just for fun, when the garage changed my clutch before, a freind and I tried to pick it up. Let me tell you, it wasn't fun. but then again, i'm not very strong.

yes.. r33 box = back breaker :devil:

i did it myself. the only 2 hard bits are the top centre bolt right, and the tail shaft bolts. the top bolt is just in a prick of a spot for my big hands (thats what you get for being 6' 3" and 80kg and trying to work on a japanese car)

6ftish.. and 105kg :w00t: you think you got hands lol unless yours are long and skinny.. i know i'd rather that :D

also.. guys stop winging about the skyline gearbox.. they are PISS EASY compared to a f*kn supra 6speed in my opinion

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