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Here's the Dynos...

different dyno's, different fudges...I mean reading. Looking at the Mainline dyno graph..

And you say you were running 12psi? With my 142rwkw - if I upped the boost to 12psi, I would lose 30rwkw due to "rich and retard". I have the dyno graphs around here somewhere to prove it.....

Its shows your car has 4 cylinders.. Also says your making 480nm or torque... Unless you were running NOS, I hardly believe that. With my Powerfc Tuned, and my car running easy 13's at 104mph, I was making 420nm or torque. With a GT30 and 250rwkw my car is making just over 500nm now.

Before I put on a big turbo, My Car, compression tested at 169psi across all cylinders, and had 2% leakdown. Thats considered a new motor. It had 70,000 genuine kms on it. Considered perfect by most. The exhaust I put on it, is still on there right now, exactly the same handling 250rwkw+.

The car had 10psi (any higher and you get rich and retard) with a 600x300x75mm intercooler, full exhaust. Threw it on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno and it made 143rwkw. Typical Factory ECU dips and shit like that. 350nm of Torque etc.

If you made 190rwkw with that setup on your Factory ECU, then you have a SAFC hidden under the dash, or your factory ECU has been chipped.

I refuse to believe that a Standard R33 GTS-T (Mine is 96 also) will make 190rwkw with only a Boost, exhaust and FMIC.

It will maybe make 190rwkw...on a fudged dyno..

Edited by The Mafia
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different dyno's, different fudges...I mean reading. Looking at the Mainline dyno graph..

And you say you were running 12psi? With my 142rwkw - if I upped the boost to 12psi, I would lose 30rwkw due to "rich and retard". I have the dyno graphs around here somewhere to prove it.....

Its shows your car has 4 cylinders.. Also says your making 480nm or torque... Unless you were running NOS, I hardly believe that. With my Powerfc Tuned, and my car running easy 13's at 104mph, I was making 420nm or torque. With a GT30 and 250rwkw my car is making just over 500nm now.

Before I put on a big turbo, My Car, compression tested at 169psi across all cylinders, and had 2% leakdown. Thats considered a new motor. It had 70,000 genuine kms on it. Considered perfect by most. The exhaust I put on it, is still on there right now, exactly the same handling 250rwkw+.

The car had 10psi (any higher and you get rich and retard) with a 600x300x75mm intercooler, full exhaust. Threw it on a Dyno Dynamics Dyno and it made 143rwkw. Typical Factory ECU dips and shit like that. 350nm of Torque etc.

If you made 190rwkw with that setup on your Factory ECU, then you have a SAFC hidden under the dash, or your factory ECU has been chipped.

I refuse to believe that a Standard R33 GTS-T (Mine is 96 also) will make 190rwkw with only a Boost, exhaust and FMIC.

It will maybe make 190rwkw...on a fudged dyno..

a certain member on here made 168 with 3" turbo back

and it seems to be the case that A LOT of people are making 150+rwkw with nothing more than a 3" turbo back...so i don't see how you can say its not possible

Anyone that says you can make over 150rwkw WITHOUT an aftermarket fuel controller or ecu, is full of shit.
I refuse to believe that a Standard R33 GTS-T (Mine is 96 also) will make 190rwkw with only a Boost, exhaust and FMIC.

I am not so sure, I got mine dyno'd yesterday, and it made 178rwkw, my only mods are turbo-back exhaust and pod filter. I have stock computer, intercooler, boost. Mine is also a 96 model.

Yeah they might have come out with 187kw at the fly, but that was 13 years ago man. Alot can happen to a 13yr old engine..

I knew for a fact that the dyno i first had it ran at is happy because all of my mates have had theirs run on it, and they've all been run at other dynos and consistently scored 10kw+ lower then the original figure.

Let those 220kw+ skylines with just a FMIC and boost controller line up against a skyline with a proven 220kw and we'll see what happens.

im not talking 220kw. im telling this guy that to say an R33 CANNOT make over 150rwkw WITHOUT aftermarket fuel management or a stand alone ECU, is ridiculous.

as for the 13 year old engine comment, a mate of mine just had his engine rebuilt (with standard parts) and it made the same power it did before the rebuild (note: it didnt die due to being old, it died due to a timing belt failure)

heheh wow, such umm gay torque bands, hehe ... i do mean gay ... hmmm oh sorry i must contribute ...

an r33 stock averages around 140rwkw if im not mistaken, a full turbo back exhaust and a little biist, say 10psi to be safe :P will see it above 150 rwkw pretty easily, and if ur maken less power than that, well i think you really have a good ol 2" exhaust that the (insert race here) on the corner sold you saying it good, buy ... buy now!!!

mind u, u will still have fark all power down low, to get any good low down response a new ecu is needed ...

good tune, ecu + 10psi turboback exhaust and a ungraded intercooler (even r34gtt side mounts can handle 200rwkw) you will see just under 200 with alot more drivability out of your car.

but ... 140rwkw stock, rough figure as every car is different and has different tolerances out of the factory, :P

ok paul, you're really not contributing anything to this thread...

125rwkw sounds way too low for me...and if thats what your car was dynoed at stock, then either something was wrong, or the dyno was wrong.

i know of far too many cars that are easily over 150rwkw with full 3" and maybe a pod on some (others with stock airbox and maybe a hi flow panel filter) and all on different dynos.

ive been to a few dyno days and have seen 120, 130 and 140's

it varies each time. i dont know how many you've seen?

it really bares no relevance to this entire topic. stock power is stock power. who cares if if it makes 300rwkw stock or 100rwkw stock.

the main concern is how much you gain when you make changes. the stock or initial dyno power is simply that, the initial starting block. mine made 141rwkw but that doesnt mean every r33 is going to make that. in fact it sounds a bit high. 130 i would expect to be the mean average across the board

ive been to a few dyno days and have seen 120, 130 and 140's

it varies each time. i dont know how many you've seen?

it really bares no relevance to this entire topic. stock power is stock power. who cares if if it makes 300rwkw stock or 100rwkw stock.

the main concern is how much you gain when you make changes. the stock or initial dyno power is simply that, the initial starting block. mine made 141rwkw but that doesnt mean every r33 is going to make that. in fact it sounds a bit high. 130 i would expect to be the mean average across the board

well its very relevant actually

adding a 3" turbo back doesnt put you to a set power level (ie 160rwkw) but its a lot easier to say it gives u XXrwkw gain

so if you're car starts at 140, and mine starts at 100, how is stock power not relevant? the same 2 cars, one with 100rwkw stock, the other with 140rwkw, will have roughly 20rwkw difference after the exhausts have been added.

ie: mine 120rwkw, yours 160rwkw...

sounds like you've been visiting the generous dynos.

There was nothing wrong with my car when done. The Dyno was just a little more accurate that the one you've obviously been to.

140rwkw is way too much for stock. That means the dyno your on is reading 20rwkw too much... :banana:

What, you think all dyno's read the same?

There is NO WAY a standard, run of the mill R33 will make 140 true rwkw. They are only 125rwkw standard.

sounds like you've been visiting the generous dynos.

There was nothing wrong with my car when done. The Dyno was just a little more accurate that the one you've obviously been to.

140rwkw is way too much for stock. That means the dyno your on is reading 20rwkw too much... :banana:

What, you think all dyno's read the same?

There is NO WAY a standard, run of the mill R33 will make 140 true rwkw. They are only 125rwkw standard.

lol, sorry, but i'm fascinated to learn how you know that one dyno is giving the wrong reading (too high) while another is giving the "true reading" at 125rwkw....

..ahh, you beat me too it.

Was going to ask The Mafia the same question.

How does anyone know that their Dyno is giving the right reading?

Also, I used to have a SAFC ages ago and got 166 on 10psi at Unigroup .

I've had it removed for over a year making room for the Power FC but took way to long to do it.

When no aftermarket ECU was in, on 12psi, and FMIC, it was freegan flyin !..talking seat of the pants feal.

Easy wheelspins in 2nd. Way better than with the SAFC and no FMIC.

I don't think it would make a difference but it's 98 ECU R33

any number of settings, adjustments, corrections, environmental factors can affect the power output so again. the stock power output or figure is simply that. its only useful if you keep going the same dyno with the same settings each time and compare the gains you make when you change stuff.

car 1 makes 140rwkw stock on 123's Dyno

car 2 makes 125rwkw stock on ABC Dyno's

what does that tell you? absolutely nothing

going by your figure of r33 = 125kw stock...

after you put on a exhaust/fmic/powerfc you got 85kw increase... (210 - 125kw = 85)

looks like perhaps your dyno is the 'happy' dyno.. unless you have some special exhaust / fmic which nobody else has heard of before...

either that or your getting some special tune on your pfc which no other tuners seem to be able to do..

also... if you only get 150kw max without an ecu... then your saying your pfc added 60kw.. like i said, your tuner must be doing something which noone else knows about...

my mods -

PowerFC

FMIC

Full Exhaust

Tune = 210rwkw.

Anyone that says you can make over 150rwkw WITHOUT an aftermarket fuel controller or ecu, is full of shit.

i'd like to see one of these 125kw r33's. the gearbox must be HUGE to lose 60kw. thats 80hp, lost through the drivetrain. i think you need to lay off the whacky-tabacky.

a general rule is that flywheel kw equals rear wheel hp. its a general rule, and only really works for stock cars.

so 184 flw kw = 184rwhp, which equals 137kw. which is closer to what people have got.

to say that it is impossibe for any skyline to crack 150kw (200hp) without aftermarket engine management is complete and utter crap. this must mean that every dyno in australia (except the one you went on) is way out. does this mean that it is impossible that a full exhaust, pod, intercooler, and more boost isn't going to ba able to make a 25kw power gain? just upping the boost from 7psi to 11psi would make that sort of difference.

Edited by mad082

and where is this 100% accurate dyno? i think we should all go visit it so we can all find out exactly how much power we are putting out.

not all cars made with exactly the same amount of power. so themafia's might on have 125kw, and others have 130-140kw. it comes down to how well it was put together. sure it may have good comperssion, but some of the sensors might be not working as well as they should, the coils could be lazy, the timing might be slightly out. there are so many variables that go into it, it is impossible to say that 125kw is the exact figure that they have.

and by standing by that you are just proving that you are a tool.

and you are also saying that there are people out there with stock ecu's (and wrong power figures) that have run 1/4 miles times (with top speeds) similar to people with a pfc who's power outputs are are much higher? there must some really good drivers who can overcome a 30-40kw power difference.

Edited by mad082
lol, sorry, but i'm fascinated to learn how you know that one dyno is giving the wrong reading (too high) while another is giving the "true reading" at 125rwkw

i would like to know also.

if i went on 10 different dynos and got 10 similar power readings, then went on yours and got a lower reading, then i'd say that yours was incorrect, but from what i have read here i could guess that you would say the opposite.

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