Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just had a thought,

GTR fenders, whatever bonnet. grill, bar and rims you wanted. Added cost of spraying and fitting = ~$7-8000. Maybe more, I'm no expert on costs.

Sell your GTSt + at least $8000 = GTR. Its win win, plus you get an RB26, 2 turbos, 4WD, 4WS, GTR seats and a GTR badge :(:P

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just had a thought,

GTR fenders, whatever bonnet. grill, bar and rims you wanted. Added cost of spraying and fitting = ~$7-8000. Maybe more, I'm no expert on costs.

Sell your GTSt + at least $8000 = GTR. Its win win, plus you get an RB26, 2 turbos, 4WD, 4WS, GTR seats and a GTR badge :(:P

One question champ.... Why? He's building a drag car - what you've suggested would make total and complete sense were it to be a road car but it isn't. GTR's are VERY heavy, harder and more expensive to make quick for drag racing and a waste of money for this application. Did I mention how heavy they are?

BezerkR32 already has the RB26 but it's not going on an RB26 block, doesn't wan't 4WD for the reasons stated above and 4WS? Not many corners on a drag strip :O

GTR badges are important though!

Adrian

little bit late know, guards werent as expensive as you think, and not really keen on two turbos, Gtr are the most fun on the street but its not really what i need for the track. besides, just stuck this in. also trying to keep car around 2500 pounds (1130kg) big ask in a gtr or 33 whale.

Just had a thought,

GTR fenders, whatever bonnet. grill, bar and rims you wanted. Added cost of spraying and fitting = ~$7-8000. Maybe more, I'm no expert on costs.

Sell your GTSt + at least $8000 = GTR. Its win win, plus you get an RB26, 2 turbos, 4WD, 4WS, GTR seats and a GTR badge :(:P

post-20078-1153277649.jpg

post-20078-1153277670.jpg

Edited by BezerkR32
Just had a thought,

GTR fenders, whatever bonnet. grill, bar and rims you wanted. Added cost of spraying and fitting = ~$7-8000. Maybe more, I'm no expert on costs.

Sell your GTSt + at least $8000 = GTR. Its win win, plus you get an RB26, 2 turbos, 4WD, 4WS, GTR seats and a GTR badge :(:O

Not everyone wants an overweight 1500+kg car, or a small 2.6lt motor :P

I'm the f**king juggernaut, bitch! :(

As djr says, why not buy aftermarket cosmetics? Carbon fibre is lighter and stronger than aluminium ya know.

Hey 28" rims, nice :P

I find aftermarket cosmetics do not offer the quality factory parts do, alos there is hardly a wide range of parts for r32s. Unless you want the some cheap fiberglass kit with a poor finish.

Also carbon fiber is dick all lighter and harldy legal anyways.

It's nicer to have Jedi powers.

Bye bye, Michael.

r u jedi or sith?

jedi use their powers for Good purposes, not evil ! :sorcerer:

Bezerkr,

go the GTR guards - get the rear end pumped out. fit big grippy tyres, run 9s

have fun doing so too.

btw: Dont test out that roll cage, ok? Might look silly on a 400m straight strecth of road, lol !

Sounds good, can you get me one for under $400?

How about the front bar from the gts4? I dont know if they all have one, mine does and it has a large front opening, looks good, is factory and not a gtr...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...