Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone i am selling my GTR as i got a raise and can now afford to get a lease. :ban: ...but also means i will have to sell my monster... :cheers:

The car has had serious money spent by myself and the previous owner. The majority of the work undertaken on the car in Japan was at the Tomei workshop and at Mercury Motorsport here in Queensland. Car has huge potential to push out more power.

The car has the following modifications;

Induction -

HKS T04S Single Turbo Conversion;

HKS stainless Steel Manifold;

HKS 48mm External Waste Gate;

HKS Air Filter;

HKS 3.5inch dump;

Custom 4 inch Titanium Intake;

Samco pipes;

100mm FMIC;

Chrome Turbo Heat shield;

Braded turbo lines (oil etc);

Engine -

Work carried out by Tomei Japan;

Tomei 262 step I cams;

Tomei Oil Pump;

Head Restrictors;

Baffled Sump;

Samco Radiator kit;

High Pressure Radiator cap;

Motal 8100 sythetic oil;

Full length carbon radiator guide

(soon to have bayside blue cam covers)

Exhaust -

External venting dump off wastegate;

Apexi Exhaust control Valve (in cabin adjustment);

HKS 3.5inch dump;

Titanium 3.5inch Cat back Exhaust;

Interior -

Momo Steering Wheel;

Pivot large shirft light;

Razo gearknob;

Greddy Electronic Oil temp gauge;

Greddy Electronic Water temp gauge;

Greddy Electronic Oil Pressure gauge;

Greddy Boost gauge;

6 point Roll Cage, bolt in;

Sound deadaning removed;

Exterior -

Shaved rear wing;

Weight reduction;

Trust front bar;

Carbon Fibre Front Bonnet

N1 Headlights

Blue/white Bulbs

Wheels/Brakes

Panasport G7 17inch mag wheels;

Race pads;

Braded lines;

Tomei master cylinder stopper;

Tomei AWD box;

Suspension -

Tein HA Pro Fully Adjustable coilovers (near new);

Replaced mounts & bushes;

Cusco 30mm Front Swayabar;

Cusco 30mm Rear Swayabar;

Cusco Front upper arms;

Cusco Front Adjustable castor rods;

Racing diffs front and rear

Other -

Flashpoint Dual Immobilizer alarm;

Power - Making 292.5 all wheel KW on 1bar of boost and 307 all wheel KW on 1.2 bar (17psi) of boost. car has been very well setup to be quick.

I am in Brisbane and after offers over $27,000 neg.

please contact me via PM, email at fsmout @ thincprojects.com or on 0404 077 220.

also check out; http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/&a...sh_id=582734956

Cheers,

Francisco

post-8436-1153268367.jpg

post-8436-1153268435.jpg

post-8436-1153268621.jpg

post-8436-1153268635.jpg

post-8436-1153713405.gif

Edited by fsmout
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126723-r32-gtr-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry about the late reply...

Not sure about the fuel pump but its bigger than standard. its very loud but its in tank and i havent taken it out to check. Has got standard injectors...which i would say are highflowed for the power levels the car is producing.

The ECU is a Reytec (tomei computer) running a map flow sensor. Check out;

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...dex-reytec.html

It has had the AC removed, however the climate control unit has been relocated to the center consol and is controlable etc.

Skyrine-dave, PM replied,

Cheers,

Francisco

Michael Whelans car was a silver R32 GTR, not this one.

This one is still a weapon, i've been for a ride in it and it's extremely impressive.

Good luck with the sale, for that price i'm sure you'll find someone to buy it, it's a lot of car for that kinda $$ !

Cheers,

Tommo.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...