Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

:) yep as i suspected those tyres are flat, once my 2nd car (94 charade) tyre went flat, it had 7 psi in it it handled crap and the tyre wore badly

i hope these people inflate them bak to 32 - 35 psi soon or the results will be dire

:) :PBJ: :)

Edited by AgentR31

I took out my car the other night and managed a 1.8 60 foot on 28psi in the tyres...

I also broke something in the diff as well due to a bit of axle tramp finishing off the burn out...

I never knew that they creased like that - i didnt think that they would do that either...

Oh well with my new diff centre and some more power ill try it lol...

I took out my car the other night and managed a 1.8 60 foot on 28psi in the tyres...

I also broke something in the diff as well due to a bit of axle tramp finishing off the burn out...

I never knew that they creased like that - i didnt think that they would do that either...

Oh well with my new diff centre and some more power ill try it lol...

Street tyres generally wont do what's pictured. At least not at 28psi. 1.8sec 60' is a great effort if they're on regular tyres though! Awesome!!!

1260kg wet...

I really dont know how mucn tyre pressure to run with the ET streets.

What would you recommend with those tyres and a nissan silvia?

They are the basically an ET Drag with grooves. 2800-odd lbs and rear wheel drive - I reckon start at 16psi and work backwards.

28 is insane!

AAAh excellent - i just thought because they are a radial tyre that they wouldnt bag up as much as a full cross ply slick....

Thanks for the advice mate, i shall give it a go in hopefully a couple of weeks...

WOOOAAAHHH!!! MT ET Streets are a crossply tyre.

ET Street Radials (as in top pic) are just that. Radials. Which do you have?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.
    • Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height!   One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.
    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
×
×
  • Create New...