Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Email from a friend of mine -

_______________________

Hey everyone,

I am making a group booking for Wakefield Park raceway - currently an open day, but if we get enough people interested, we can secure use of the track for our group.

If you're interested, please let me know by emailing [email protected]

It'll cost the usual $75 or so plus $25 or so licence ($99/day for 1st timers). Plus petrol :(

It'll be an early start (meeting before 6AM and leaving at 6:15AM sharp, near the M5 on King Georges Rd)

More details will be provided to those that are keen.

Rich.

________________________

Should be a good day - i have put my name down.

Christian.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1277-track-day-17th-of-august/
Share on other sites

ONARUN - Wakefield is a great track for first timers. Very forgiving and plenty of run-off space.

I'd go but I'm attending the drivers course on the 6 and 7 Aug, then on the 8th at EC. Need to rest my car before I blow something.

I really recommend this track for first timers.

Originally posted by Silver-Arrowz

ONARUN - Wakefield is a great track for first timers. Very forgiving and plenty of run-off space.

I really recommend this track for first timers.

everyone i've talked to has said the same so i'm definately giving it a go. gonna test out all those sand traps to see if they work

Wakefield is about 10 mins south of Goulburn on Braidwqood road - so about 2.5hrs from Sydney. An easy morning's drive there - long tow back:p

Best of all - nothing to hit there - even if you try REALY hard.

if its on the weekend, i am considering.... 17th is saturday??...

i've never been on the track before nor i have had a defensive driving course or anything like that.. would i be too much of a sh1t driver to go on wakefield then???

i am worried that myself and my r could get hurt...

and can someone please please teach me how to do this??? :burnout: (if i end up going)

thank you

Originally posted by meggala

Dont put me down yet but I'm considering it for a weekend away?

meggala

go on steve. i'd be good to meet up.

-------

nissaner, never been myself so we can meet in the sandtrap and discuss the finer points of racing if you want. let's say corner number two on lap one;)

Originally posted by ONARUN

go on steve. i'd be good to meet up.

-------

nissaner, never been myself so we can meet in the sandtrap and discuss the finer points of racing if you want. let's say corner number two on lap one;)

porg's.. i will teach u how to drive :) muhhahahahhaqhha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...