Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

leaning more toward the boot lid rubber stoppers now. ive adjusted the latch to hold the lid higher and the rattle has quietened down but still auditable. ill pickup the stoppers tomorrow if i get out of the mechanics early enough. keeps u posted

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

SOLD!

Refer sig :D

Seriously though, you still have it? :no:

mate if only u were in melb. mate of mine has an import wreckers that deals with only skylines, silvias etc. he :D:( would have EVERYTHING ur after. almost garentee it! :(

new boot rubber stoppers fitted. the boot shuts a lot nicer but theres still a rattle... any other suggestions apart from gutting the whole arse end?

checked the 2 layers of the boot skin/reinforcement area? (common issue after putting in big stereos - need to silicon the 2 layers together so they dont rattle)

checked the licence plate mounts and plate itself?

hey mark, yeah i think I kept the tie down clamp thing. I'll have a look when I get home tonight, if i've got it it's your for $0.00 inc postage.

Thanks Richard, much appreciated. The existing one was butchered by a ham-fisted auto elec that had never seen a spacer.

checked the 2 layers of the boot skin/reinforcement area? (common issue after putting in big stereos - need to silicon the 2 layers together so they dont rattle)

checked the licence plate mounts and plate itself?

stock speakers etc. dont wanna add too much weight to my car. ill check the skins and support stuff. i might go nuts with a tube of black silicone.

the whole plate assembly has been checked as i thought my new plates might have been vibrating. its not this...

thanks for the suggestions :)

ive been getting it ever since my coilovers have been installed, might be exhaust? had a guy in a wrx pull upnext to me doing 80kmh to tell me my exhaust was loose hahahah

Easy way to fix it? good stereo, the cars are getting old and unfortunately rattly, ive ironed out alot in my car but there are some deeep ones

question: where do you guys access in behind the rear 1/4 panels? do you go in through the boot? or can you access them by taking the interior trim off as well?

i gutted the inside of the boot and the interior eg:back seats, upper and lower trims (destroying my upper trims in the process...) you cant see diddley sqwat from the interior. most of the rear quarters is thru the boot.

new rubber stoppers are on the boot lid now and the latch has been adjusted. still got rattles...

ive had the exhaust checked before with 3 of us under the car on a hoist banging and shaking the crappa out of it. not a peep. ive thought maybe it could have something to do with the suspention. i still have the stock setup. anyone had anything wrong with their stock suspention? any rattles? still gotta hunt this nosie down.

Mr Ed32, is true about a good stereo but i do sometimes like to drive and listen to the RB26 in front of me. wicked note. which is why i hate distracting rattles!

anybody seen that computer lookin thing thats located inside the left rear quarter panel in front of the jack holder? WTF is it??

thats the module for the rear dimister? correct me if iam wrong >_<........and have u checked the left seat belt harness, if its bolted/seated down properly? got the same rattles in my car figured one of them just one more to find...sounds like the barrier from the boot to rear seats..but havent been too bothered to find out.

thats the module for the rear dimister? correct me if iam wrong :(........and have u checked the left seat belt harness, if its bolted/seated down properly? got the same rattles in my car figured one of them just one more to find...sounds like the barrier from the boot to rear seats..but havent been too bothered to find out.

i havnt tried the seatbelts yet. thanks for the suggestion. ive had the rear seats out and the panel between the boot and the cab out and the noise is still in there. it actually became louder. this is why i reckon its gotta be coming from the boot somewhere.

does anybody agree that its the module for the rear demister in the left hand rear quarter panel?

I have had this rattle since I bought my car and I know theres a bracket in the quarter panel holding the jack (in mine anyway).

Ive always thought it was the parcel shelf being loose and the speaker rattling against the frame....meh!

yea ive got that jack bracket in the rear panel. its securely fixed. ive driven around with the inside of the back of my car completely gutted including the parcel shelf. still hear this damn rattle! im leaning toward maybe the suspention setup?? its still the stock stuff so...

  • 5 months later...
yea ive got that jack bracket in the rear panel. its securely fixed. ive driven around with the inside of the back of my car completely gutted including the parcel shelf. still hear this damn rattle! im leaning toward maybe the suspention setup?? its still the stock stuff so...

sorry to reply such an old post , but i had the same problem on my r32gtst. Its driving me insane ! I sent my car to centreline performance to get them checked if its the suspension, but after a thorough check, it wasnt. I used to ask my mechanic to tighten the exhaust harness before and it was quieter. I asked a new mechanic recently to tighten it and they say it cant be tighten... so im unsure now ... Its really very annoying !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...