Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I just got my car resprayed about a month ago.

I was told not to polish or wax it yet.

Is this right?

All I have been doing is washing the car once a week since I hate dirt getting stuck on the car.

I'd agree with that.

Wash it to keep it clean, wax it in a month or too for protection and it shouldnt need a real polish (ie cutting compounds)

My car was painted close to 3 years ago, and to this day it hasnt needed a polish, it is just washed and waxed reguarly. (has had a few bits touched with the clay)

Yep, don't polish or wax a new paint job for at least a month. The paint needs time to cure - basically the solvents used to make the paint a liquid need to evaporate out and if you wax it you put a barrier on the paint that stops that process.

On a new paint job either just wax, or use a pure polish (for example Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze) to bring out the depth of the paint more. Don't use a polish that cuts the paint :D

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
[man it probly needs a cut n polish not just a wax... wax is to protect the paint but if your just waxing crap it aint gona do nufn... well thats what i know....... use to do detailing on prestige cars. good luck.

You do not have to cut and polish your car to achieve a shine like this providing your paint work is in great condition.

Wax is what creates the dept and shine. Its not hard to achieve this finish jst time and patience.

  • 2 weeks later...

at the moment my rear bar is a white gelcoat fibreglass, and im guessing it might be harder to clean the black stains of it from my exhaust (when it starts building up)

can anyone recommend a good cleaning item to clean the black stains of the white gelcoat? i guess when i get it painted they might need to sand it back a bit :O

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey All, So after using a lot of different types of Wash/polish/waxes I thought I might give the Autoglym stuff a go. I just first of all like to say that im not really here to say that one brand is better then another, I use all different types, and I thought id post this up as a guide.

First of all I washed my car using Autoglym Shampoo at the car wash and then dried the car.

The 2nd step was to go around the car looking for minor scratches and imperfections in the paint and tabbing it with Meguires scratch X. letting it dry and then buff it by hand. This also helped get rid of some swirl marks.

The 3rd step I missed out on as the closest auto store to me had run out of the meguires clay and lube combo, and while I really wanted to do this, I had to skip it until next time as i couldnt be assed trying to track one down.

The 4th step was to use the Autoglym Deep Shine Polish (Its meant to be better for darker cars then their normal resin polish) pretty much lightly coverd the car with this stuff using a micro fiber cloth (one panel at a time) and then buffed it back by hand. (yes my arm is killing me)

I was pretty impressed after buffing back the whole car, the panels immideitly seemed more reflective and the little scratches and so on were either gone or becme less visible

The 5th step was to put on the Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection (wax). This was a like a clear liquid that your meant to just dab onto a clean cloth and then dab onto the paint without rubbing it in. This liquid started to dry into like a thin film after a few mintues and according to the directions I had to let it dry for around 30-60 mins. I then buffed it all back by hand once again. Once I had buffed it back and all the wax/smudges was removed. I got a new cloth and polished each panel again with more force. This really brought out the Paint.

Verdict: Keeping in mind that my car is a 93 model R33 (so the paint is over 13 years old), I thought that the paint came out really well. The Polish and wax from autoglym was great I found and the best thing about it was that it didn’t leave hardly any white powder which is a pain in the ass when u have a black car cos it always gets in between the paneling. Price wise, its not too bad, $35 something for the polish and $25 something for the gloss protection. The Autoglym car shampoo wasn’t anything special and it didn’t foam as much as say the meguires stuff, however it did clean really well.

All feedback welcome.

Cheers,

Din.

Edited by dineth

Pics:

1. at the wash, (before)

2. after washing

3. with the polish on and then buffed

4. And another

5. With the Extra Gloss protection (wax) on and then buffed back

6. outside after final buff

7. After photo

8. Products used (forgot to put in the scratch x)

post-2347-1165208480.jpg

post-2347-1165208496.jpg

post-2347-1165208510.jpg

post-2347-1165208529.jpg

post-2347-1165208547.jpg

post-2347-1165208563.jpg

post-2347-1165208578.jpg

post-2347-1165208593.jpg

Edited by dineth
  • 4 weeks later...

I have found that a product called Carlack 68 is a great base for polishing, applying fairly thick as its pretty piss easy to get off and then a nice coat of Meguiars Gold Class will bring the car up awesome.

Also, a product called Platinum Car Polish by Autoglym is also too.. just hard to get your hands on some unless you're in the detailing business. I use to be, hence where I got it from, but if you can get some.. its worth it ;)

  • 3 weeks later...

Just got my random orbitial polisher so this weekend its swirl kill'in time

Plan

Wash - Just some Meguires

Clay - clay magic and some wolfgang lube

Wash - Zymol Auto Bathe

Swirl removal - Pinnacle XMT 1.0 on a polishing pad

Polish - Pinnacle finishing polish on an ultra fine pad

Wax - Zymol Japon by hand...maybe two layers if i have time to let it sit.

  • 2 weeks later...

Swissol has a good rep as a high end brand but I find some of it a bit over priced. $50 for 250ml of car bath is Oprah money or is that Zymol money. The Samuari wax sounds interesting probably similar to the Zymol Japon but a bit cheaper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
×
×
  • Create New...