Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
On 09/01/2017 at 7:46 AM, RANDY said:

Hi, I was wondering if anyone could check Fast to search for both left and right lower control arms on a R32 GTR? I have a 1993 model, series 2.

I'm having issues with these arms. I purchased a replacement for my suspected bent one but I don't think it is the right one and the number stamped on it is different. I tried contacting Nissan but was told Fast no longer has R32's loaded. I'm getting desperate and don't want to buy another until I know what the issue is.

Do you need my VIN?

Thanks in advance

Cheers

1 hour ago, my_gtr32 said:
On 1/9/2017 at 7:46 AM, RANDY said:

Hi, I was wondering if anyone could check Fast to search for both left and right lower control arms on a R32 GTR? I have a 1993 model, series 2.

I'm having issues with these arms. I purchased a replacement for my suspected bent one but I don't think it is the right one and the number stamped on it is different. I tried contacting Nissan but was told Fast no longer has R32's loaded. I'm getting desperate and don't want to buy another until I know what the issue is.

Do you need my VIN?

Thanks in advance

Cheers

Probably the most accurate way, but here are all the part numbers. A late R32 is what I selected:

2017-01-12 21_04_10-NFA025  ILLUSTRATION.png

2017-01-12 21_05_07-NFA025  ILLUSTRATION.png

2017-01-12 21_08_19-NFA051.png

13 hours ago, RANDY said:

It looks like the part changed in 93, so VIN would show only one part.

Hey, thanks Randy. My VIN is BNR32-301183 . The arms on my car have H2405U (Left) marked in the casting. 5H05U (Right). The right one seems to be the problem and increases neg camber more than left.

I fitted another right arm marked 3405U and drastically reduced camber to zero. I'm pretty sure the left one is correct and camber is where it should be. Only things it could be is the 3rd link or maybe the cross member? Car has no signs of major damage that's been repaired so I'm thinking the original arm is bent and I need a replacement 5H05U.

Thanks again for the quick reply mate.

5 hours ago, my_gtr32 said:

Hey, thanks Randy. My VIN is BNR32-301183 . The arms on my car have H2405U (Left) marked in the casting. 5H05U (Right). The right one seems to be the problem and increases neg camber more than left.

I fitted another right arm marked 3405U and drastically reduced camber to zero. I'm pretty sure the left one is correct and camber is where it should be. Only things it could be is the 3rd link or maybe the cross member? Car has no signs of major damage that's been repaired so I'm thinking the original arm is bent and I need a replacement 5H05U.

Thanks again for the quick reply mate.

Double post!

5 hours ago, my_gtr32 said:

Hey, thanks Randy. My VIN is BNR32-301183 . The arms on my car have H2405U (Left) marked in the casting. 5H05U (Right). The right one seems to be the problem and increases neg camber more than left.

I fitted another right arm marked 3405U and drastically reduced camber to zero. I'm pretty sure the left one is correct and camber is where it should be. Only things it could be is the 3rd link or maybe the cross member? Car has no signs of major damage that's been repaired so I'm thinking the original arm is bent and I need a replacement 5H05U.

Thanks again for the quick reply mate.

No probs! Cheers!

Presumably you don't have camber bolts in the struts?

Here are the part numbers for your car, and the alternate part numbers. The other side is 54505 with the same endings.

-Steve

2017-01-13 16_10_49-NFA010 Nissan FAST for Windows [1].png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
    • Looked it up. It sounds so expensive lmao I'd rather not. Awwwww but I just love that sound
    • If you want the screaming "weeeee" sound, just let the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo break a little. It'll go "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" everytime its on boost...
×
×
  • Create New...